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  1. Today
  2. Otto Mation

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Be careful where you install a shutoff valve when you are dealing with a well. If you have it between the pressure switch and the well you will have a big problem if it ever shuts off and the pressure switch is calling for water. With the GE 40A switch you don't need a shutoff valve. Just make sure you install the switch between the breaker and the pressure switch. Also Intermatic makes one that is similar and cheaper but I don't think that it is Z-Wave Plus. https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-CA3750-Multi-Volt-120-277VAC-Contactor/dp/B000YUCES2/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=intermatic+z-wave+switch&qid=1582749438&sr=8-10
  3. Wlepse

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    I have leak sensors all over the house tied back to my Leaksmart valve and have been meaning to put in a kill switch for the well pump. I was going to use a smart outlet to a solid state relay, but just never got around to cobbling together all the parts. I should probably just bite the bullet and get the GE 40A switch...just always seemed like overkill for the job.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Otto Mation

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    It pairs as an energy reporting Z-Wave Switch and is Z-Wave plus. I love mine. It comes in its own electrical box. You just let SHMBO know that now is time to ramp up the automation not to cut back. If this stuff was in place you could have just looked at your phone, rolled over and gone back to sleep and dealt with fixing the leak in the morning and with none of the damage that you did encounter. ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ˜Ž
  6. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Oh, I like the drain idea. I wonder if the GE 240 volt switches are still available. I would like to be able to interrupt the power to the pump. And your tank drain idea is good too. I was thinking of something independent of ST or any HA system, something more foolproof that will always work no matter what. A self-contained float switch seems like it would accomplish that. But I am still open to adding the GE 240V switch. I toyed with getting on a couple years ago just to have it and now I wish I did. Did a quick search and they are still out there. I may get one even if I do go with the float switch. I looked in the ST app but didn't see this particular switch from GE (or JASCO who actually makes the switch) listed. SO not sure it is compatible. How did you get it to work with ST Otto? Thanks for the ideas Otto. Stay dry. ๐Ÿ™‚ On order, should be here tomorrow. ๐Ÿ™‚ Amazon had the best price + free shipping. I wouldn't mind having one of those 40A 240V switches for my shop. I could put it in line with the sub-panel and be able to shut down all the power to tools when not in the shop.
  7. Otto Mation

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Wow Sparc it sounds like it could have been worse for sure. Let me tell you what I have done with my system. I had this working on SmartThings and now on Hubitat. I have 17 leak sensors in the house. Every sink, toilet, water treatment equipment, water heater, well pressure tank and any appliance that touches water in the house. I have a GE 240 volt Z-Wave switch on the well pump. I also have my Rachio sprinkler system paired to my hub. If I get a leak anywhere, the well pump shuts off, the RO pump shuts off, the hot water recirculation pump shuts off and the Rachio sprinkler system opens Zone 14 which drains the 80 gallon pressure tank in minutes. My Hue bulbs all turn on and turn blue. I then get a text and push telling me which leak detector set off this chain of events. That'll help you with that breaker panel trip.
  8. neoleo2003

    Careful with old Iris Cameras

    Just wanted to share that someone has been trying to access my old Iris Indoor and Outdoor cams. My Xfinity Gateway prevented access to the foreign IP address.I did have them connected to SmartThings via the setup on this site. Since they no longer record and we're just additional to my Ring Security and the many cameras I have that are ring now, I just disconnected them. I wanted to see if anyone else has noticed this issue? Ring has along way to go with home automation but I believe they are much better than what we had with Iris. Just make sure you use all the required new security features including two step verification and only use a unique password for your system.
  9. Last week
  10. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    SmartThings and my Sense energy monitor saved my basement the other day. I was awoken by the alarm sounding off at 3:00 AM. When that happens a recorded message plays through the Aerotec doorbell, all the lights in the house come on, and if it's a security alert then the siren will sound. In this case it wasn't an intruder alert or perimeter security breach. It was a leak in my water system. A PVC fitting (check valve) broke (split at the threaded connection) and was gushing water at 60 PSI and about 3 GPM. I have three of the IRIS 2G leak detectors spread around the basement at potential problem areas. The mechanical room where the water heater and boiler are, over by the water treatment system where the line from our well enters the house, and by the air handler and AC coil where there is a condensate reservoir and pump which collects water from condensation on the AC coil or from the dehumidifier in the Summer. All three of these are set to send an alarm to my phone and to sound a local alarm in the house and turn on the lights. By the time I got downstairs in the basement I had about 50 gallons of water on the floor [that's based on how much water we hauled out during cleanup]. When I went back through the notification list in the ST App I saw that the first leak detection was at 2:55AM at the well pump. The second leak detector by the air handler tripped a couple minutes later. There is a sump in the floor next to the well tank and water treatment system, but we don't have a sump pump in it and have never needed it in 22 years and the previous owners didn't have one either. It's not really big enough to do much, it's just a piece of 12 inch square clay flue lining set in the concrete and filled with stone. I don't know how deep it goes as I've never dug out the stone, no reason to. But apparently the leak started minutes earlier because the Sense energy monitor sent an alert at 3:05 that the well pump had been running for over 15 minutes continuously. I set that up to let me know either A - the sprinkler system was running or B - there was a failure in the domestic water system, either of which are the only two scenarios I could think of where the pump would run more than 15 minutes. So 15 minutes after the pump came on I got the alert from the Sense app on the phone, and it came within a minute of the SmartThings app alerting me of the leak detector trips. I believe the delay in the ST leak detection was due to the water initially running down into the sump so it didn't set off the leak detector when the leak first occurred. I guess once the sump became saturated with water and it started backing up is when the flooding of the floor began. Ironically if IRIS were still up and running I would have found out much sooner as I had a different leak detector, the Utilitech which has a remote sensor, installed with the sensor down in the sump. But that sensor does not work under SmartThings so I had substitute one of the IRIS 2G Leak detectors. Came down in the basement and saw what the situation was. Luckily the split was on the side facing the wall and all the water was spraying into the corner and not across the room so no water damage to anything up high just some stuff that was on the floor in the area near the pump. I couldn't shut off the pump at the disconnect switch because the area had standing water on the floor. So had to go to the breaker panel on the other side of the house and open the breaker before it was safe to enter the area. I shut off a 1-1/4 valve that isolates the house and the well tank from the well so I was able to hold back all that water from draining into the basement. That meant I only had a small volume of water in a few feet of pipe from the valve to where the line comes in the house and there is a check valve. It was that check valve which split and was the cause of the leak. The valve was as old as the house as far as I know. We've been here 22 years and I have not replaced it. Was part of the original plumbing as far as I know. Anyway it is PVC and has a FM threaded connection at each end. PVC FM threaded fittings are something to be avoided in my book. You can never get them tight because the PVC stretches so easily and you end up overtightening them. Spent the next 4 hours sucking up water and hauling damaged stuff outside to take to the dump. Mostly junk we didn't need anyway and some area rugs on the concrete floor so no real loss in dollars. If I hadn't had all 'that stupid electronics stuff' deployed as SHMBO was fond of telling me we most likely would have had much greater damage. The pump would not have stopped until the flooding reached the disconnect switch or the breaker panel and shorted them out. I don't see what else would have stopped it from running for hours had I not been home. If it had happened during the day and we were both at work or away who knows how long or how many thousands of gallons of water would have filled the basement. Basement is roughly same footprint as the house so about 2100 SF. That's a lot of water before you reach the breaker panel and start tripping breakers. I think I may add a NC float switch in line with the pressure switch so that as long as the float switch is not tripped by high water the pump will run. But should this happen again the float in the sump would interrupt the power to the pump and stop the worst of the flooding.
  11. Earlier
  12. OhioYJ

    Switching to ST New App

    Well I ended up deleting everything from the old app (apps, scenes, and automations) and adding them back in manually in the new app. All works fine EXCEPT the thermostat. No matter what I do it doesn't work. Just creating an automation doesn't work at all for the thermostat, it just ignores them completely. Tried deleting them, and creating them again. Tried disabling them, re-enabling them. I've since tried making a scene for them, and using a scene to control the thermostat and then call the scene in the automation, but then those only work randomly. When I say randomly, it's more like very rarely.
  13. Wlepse

    I sure do miss the activity that we used to have here

    I hear you on that one. I find the other platforms much harder to find resolutions to your problems partly because they are so open. With iris there were relatively few devices that you could use and the functionality was limited, so it was easier for someone to help guide you to a solution. With HE or ST there are so many devices, custom device handlers and complex rules to set things up it is much more difficult to find the actual problem. Every few months I have issues with my SHM and it goes away before I find a solution. I think part of it has to do with platform updates but I can't be sure.
  14. Like the title says, I miss the activity, discussions and exchange of information that we used to have here. I recognized all of the characters by their avatar and pretty much could predict how they would respond to certain posts. I had moved on to SmartThings and then quickly to Hubitat and I am active on both of their respective forums but what we had here, is missing there.
  15. OhioYJ

    Switching to ST New App

    I figure at some point we'll be forced to switch. There's a bunch of stuff pretty broken right now in the latest version of the old app, so I have to keep it at version 2.17 to have everything "right". So that was the reason I was going to go ahead and try to migrate.
  16. Terminal

    Switching to ST New App

    If you have some simple routines or smartlighting routines you want to move over to the new automations then that would probably be okay to start doing. Most of my automations are in webcore, so I am not doing anything until I am forced to.
  17. Terk

    Switching to ST New App

    Not all smart apps support the new ST app fully yet. The new ST app uses different Groovy display requirements than the old app did. The developer for the one smart app I'm still running on ST said he hasn't had time to rewrite it yet but is planning on it. So for now I'm still on the old app.
  18. OhioYJ

    Switching to ST New App

    How do you actually go about migrating over to it fully? Delete all of the apps and automations in the classic app and recreate them in the new one?
  19. Terk

    Pet feeder using Iris

    I bought a Petnet SmartFeeder (2nd generation) about a year ago and the first 1 I had worked for about a week but then wouldn't talk to their cloud anymore. They sent me a new one and it has worked perfectly since then. The 1st gen unit didn't have a locking lid and I guess pets could get it open and I don't know if you could disable the manual feed button on it either but both of those issues were resolved in the 2nd gen. One time it fed way more than expected but it only happened once in the last year. It hasn't ever missed a feeding even when the internet was down since the schedule gets downloaded to it for offline use and it has a backup battery so if the power is out it should still feed on schedule for a few days. It is WiFi and doesn't integrate with ST or Hubitat but it works from Alexa and it's own app. With our single cat I have to fill the hopper about once a month.
  20. franzink

    Pet feeder using Iris

    You mean to say the the commercial pet feeders for cats does not work or end up being vandalized by cats? I was thinking maybe a honeyguaridan pet feeder which just dispenses small amounts and battery powered for starters? any suggestions since I have only 1 cat and always away at work and get home late at night.
  21. I'm using a mix of 15 cameras which include Iris gen1 & gen2, Dahua and Amcrest. They are all connected to Blue Iris and I'm using a Homebridge plugin (homebridge-camera-ffmpeg v0.1.14) to connect them to HomeKit.
  22. Princeau99

    SystronicRF system is now available to general public

    OK. I'll bite. what cameras are you using. Is this through Apple kit enabled device?
  23. Where there's a will there's a way...
  24. I can do the Dick Tracy bit with my Samsung Gear watch connected to the SmartThings Hub, as well as manually control lights and such. If it were possible to view cameras on the watch that would be handy. When I'm in the shop and Alexa announces "motion on breezeway" I could take a peek at the breezeway cameras from the watch. Watch can connect directly to Wi-Fi, doesn't require interfacing with a phone.
  25. Here is a better one.
  26. Can you send us some screenshots of you talking on that watch? Or better yet maybe a shoe phone?
  27. Alexa and Google Home both work with Hubitat and you can get Siri to work as well if you incorporate Homebridge. The added bonus of Siri is it lets me control all of my automations from my Apple Watch. The only thing they havenโ€™t got working is the V1 keypad. Iโ€™ll take voice control over a 7 year old device any day. Here are some screen shots from my Apple Watch.
  28. I have found that historical data can be very useful. It helps in making minor adjustments to my home automation system.. I typically monitor the last 6 hours but can go back as far as I need to. Iโ€™m exporting all my Hubitat events to an InfluxDB running on a Raspberry PI. The reason I bring this up is since SystronicsRF runs on a RPi it should be possible to integrate this functionality. Here are some examples of what should be possible.
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