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Showing most liked content since 06/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    This morning at 12:15 am my Iris system alarmed on a water leak. The drain hose on my non-Iris water softener malfunctioned and started spraying water everywhere. The leak sensor I had placed on the floor next to the softener detected the water leak, setoff the alarm and turned off the main water valve so there was minimal clean-up required. This is the third time Iris as saved me from potential major water damage. Thanks again Iris!
  2. 4 likes
    Maybe I can make a page for turning off and on devices just for people that want to do this.
  3. 3 likes
    That would be awesome! Also is there anyway you could create an option to change the background colors so that we didn't have to use the the invert colors option within the iOS?
  4. 3 likes
    Here's what it looks like on a wall mounted iPad. .
  5. 3 likes
    Dakota: Welcome, and sorry you are having problems. To give you some perspective, the two guys who responded above probably have more than 350 devices between them. They've gotten there through trial and error, solved many problems, and have a good deal of wisdom regarding the Iris system. I'm thankful we've got guys willing to share that. So, I recommend you give their advice serious consideration because they often have solutions that Customer Service may not have thought of. Hope this forum can give you some assistance, and again, welcome.
  6. 2 likes
    Preface: Iris needs to make available some humidity sensors. In the absence of them, I've been trying to create a web of Radio thermostats in my crawl space because they have humidity reporting capability. The following cautionary tale results. I have an IRIS-certified Radio Corporation CT-101 thermostat in my crawl space that reports humidity. Fine. I needed several in different locations. Enter some 2012 precursors to the CT-101 found on eBay: CT-100's. The CT-100s are z-wave devices, just not specifically certified by Iris. They should work, right? No. Twice, with Tier 1's generous assistance, I have paired them. Twice, they have blown up my z-wave network. Twice, within hours of pairing, several dozens of my z-wave devices have gone offline. GE switches and lamp modules, Schlage deadbolts, GDO's, thermostats, etc. have all fallen prey to whatever a CT-100 does to the system. 20+ devices went off-line -- power-cycling them, air-gapping them, cycling the hub, z-wave heal -- nothing was effective. Twice, with T2 help, I've removed the uncertified CT-100s, and then the healing begins. Some devices never come back, and I've had to un-pair and repair the recalcitrant devils. I've got three still off-line. Moral: Iris isn't kidding when they say uncertified devices can wreak havoc with your system. Approach with caution.
  7. 2 likes
    I would replace a battery at anything less than 40%. The app will show a battery low level at 30% which is far way too low.
  8. 2 likes
    I opened up the portal this morning and noticed SHANE said there were thunderstorms expected for my area and asked if I wanted to put my irrigation controller on a rain delay. I clicked on yes and sure enough it put the controller on a 24 hr rain delay. This just keeps getting better, thanks again @thegillion for all the work you've put into this!
  9. 2 likes
    When is Lowe’s hiring you to get their portal up to snuff with yours.
  10. 2 likes
    Ok...here's an update: I got the receiver installed and decided to try Iris first. It paired as an uncertified device as "OSO Technologies"... no surprise to me that it wouldn't work with Iris. I next tried Smartthings and it works great. Unpaired from ST and next tried Wink. It works fine with Wink too. The handheld remote works fine too but I'll use this with Wink and use Alexa to control it. Alexa can only control the light portion of it, but I created Wink shortcuts for the fan motor on, off, speeds 1 -4, and "breeze" setting...then use IFTTT to trigger the Wink shortcuts thus Alexa can now control my fan and light both. This retrofit was much easier than rewiring in-wall switches for my case to control this fan.
  11. 2 likes
    Yes the V2 buttons suck but they suck for one and only one reason the way the battery goes in and connects.
  12. 2 likes
    For those of you that are using Blue Iris for a 3rd party camera interface the latest version ( now provides Alexa integration. I copied the following from the help section: Amazon Echo Most Amazon Echo home automation integration requires a solution provider to establish a dedicated central web server. However, the Blue Iris model has always been private, local control without a central-server requirement--your video and system control commands never pass through a third-party server and no Internet connection is required. Therefore in order to get Amazon Echo to talk to your Blue Iris PC directly, we have had to implement this functionality via device emulation--there are a few home automation devices with which Echo can communicate directly, such as the Philips Hue lighting systems and WeMo devices, and Blue Iris will appear to Echo as one of these. To get started, you should have your Echo and your Blue Iris PC on the same LAN. If you have multiple subnets (routers), the Echo and your PC should be configured in such a way that they are visible to each other on the network. In addition to basic control of the traffic signal icon and profile#, you may choose to add individual camera control as well--please see the Amazon Echo setting on each camera's properties pages. Next, use the Connect to Amazon Echo button on Options/Mobile devices. This will make your PC discoverable by the Echo device via UPNP technology. You will be notified once the Echo is able to successfully connect. If you add or remove any camera from Echo control, or if your PC's LAN address changes, you should re-run this discovery step in order to find any newly added cameras. To fully remove a camera from Echo control you may need to use the Alexa app on your Smartphone. In addition, to fully remove Echo access to your Blue Iris, you should delete the user entry that's created on Options/Mobile devices. Once discovery is successful, you're ready to issue commands to your Echo such as: "Alexa, turn Blue Iris On" to set the traffic signal icon to yellow/green "Alexa, turn Blue Iris Off" to set the traffic signal icon to red "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 10%" to set profile 1 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 50%" to set profile 5 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 100%" to resume the normal schedule For individual camera control (if configured on camera properties page prior to discovery), you can issue commands such as: "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 On" to enable, pause, record, or select the camera (as configured) "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 Off" to disable, un-pause, stop recording, or de-select the camera "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 10%" to move to PTZ preset 1 "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 50%" to move to PTZ preset 5 Sure in a perfect world, we would not use percentages to control presets and profiles, this is a side-effect of the light-bulb device emulation. If Amazon opens the ASK API (Amazon Skill Kit Application Programming Interface) to further direct device control manufacturers, or if Blue Iris builds-out a full user portal website, this may change. You may also see additional HA integration, such as Hue and WeMo control directly through Blue Iris.
  13. 1 like
    The only rules there are for cameras and you do need a premium plan to use them. You should be able to find any rule you need for sensors under the doors and locks or lights and switches.
  14. 1 like
    I was just reading through the iOS 11 features and noticed this: HOMEKIT Developers can now experiment with HomeKit without needing to apply for Made for iPhone (MFi) approval from Apple. That means developers can start creating and testing products before bringing them to market and Apple is even permitting experimentation popular custom-fit boards like the Arduino and Raspberry Pi. HomeKit products also no longer need a hardware authentication chip, which means new and existing product manufacturers will be able to add HomeKit support to devices through a firmware update. I believe they have finally seen the light! I feel like that crazy requirement for a hardware authentication chip is what has been holding back homekit all this time. Lift this restriction and I believe you will start to see tons of manufacturers update their products with homekit support!
  15. 1 like
    The temporary solution is to unplug the Ethernet cable and wait for the hub to roll over to cellular and then plug it back in. A permanent fix should be included in the next release.
  16. 1 like
    I had that same message about a year ago or more but I couldn't stream as it disabled the buttons. I called support and had to mess around with taking out the modem, putting it back in going back on cellular by pulling the RJ45 waiting a minute and putting it back in, eventually the message went away and streaming was working so support said they would look into that if they could replicate the issue.
  17. 1 like
    The official IRIS Web Portal and app show one of my contact sensors as OK. The unofficial web portal shows that sensor as a "problem" and lists the level at 38%. So at what point should I change batteries? I don't even know what the official app will display it when it is no longer OK. I have spare batteries so I'm going to replace the one in question but as a guideline when should they be replaced?
  18. 1 like
    I made no changes to my system, but on 7/12 and 7/13 almost all my zwave devices were disconnected from the system. That's about 6 GE switches, my GDO, and 40 amp zwave switch.. All 3 of my smoke detectors, an old style leak detector, and all zigbee devices remained connected. Everything has been rock solid for months before before this event. This is about the same time my freezer started reporting over 7000 deg, so i attribute the issue to updates. A couple of restarts didn't help the problem. On 7/13 everything mysteriously reconnected. I have a feeling upcoming updates are messing with some people's networks. -Jim C
  19. 1 like
    Could you make it a page the we can customize like a favorites page that we could select which devices show up? Then we could group or place in the order we choose which switches, fan controls, etc. fit our individual needs. On the background option what about offering a few different solid colors as backgrounds that we could choose from. The files are small and would not put any load on servers or increase page load times.
  20. 1 like
  21. 1 like
    Unexpected entries in the history log is another indication that changes are in the wind.
  22. 1 like
    There's an admin here "Otto" that has 16 devices in his master bath and Vett has probably close to 16 cameras alone so I don't think it's the number of devices you have causing your problem. What are the other devices you have that are causing problems and how recent?
  23. 1 like
    One of my fans was hooked up to a single switch which turned on/off power to both the light and components, last night I got one of the fan modules installed, I removed the switch and just wire nutted the AC in and load wires together to feed the fan constant power and one of my remotes was made to replace a switch so it goes in the box even though it doesn't hook up to any wires. I paired the fan module to SmartThings and two remotes, the Z-Wave is week on these modules so I couldn't get it to pair the first time and had to move my ST hub to the center of my house, then turn of the circuit breaker for 30 seconds to get the fan module to go back into pairing mode. It doesn't help the signal strength that I left the antenna inside the metal hood with the electrical wiring but the cord is short and I couldn't find a good place to bring it out and keep it from being too visable, plus the fan was getting heavy after holding it up there to wire it and get the wires out of the way. I also had to load three DTHs for SmartThings to see it correctly, I did this ahead of time since I knew it wouldn't work without them. So far it is working great with the remotes, SmartThings, Alexa, and I'm guessing Google however I didn't try that last night.
  24. 1 like
    It's really not weird, they're just preparing early for global warming.
  25. 1 like
    This morning at 7:08:31 while I was sitting in the kitchen drinking a cup of coffee and surfing the web my First Alert smoke detector reported smoke and in that same second sounded the alarm. All the keypads are beeping at full volume along with the hub and my siren is blaring and no doubt waking the neighbors since it's early on a Sunday morning. Just 13 seconds later at 7:08:44 Iris says smoke is no longer detected I immediately get a phone call from Iris and I acknowledge receipt of the message. I go to the keypad and cancel the alarm. The keypads and hub stop blaring but the siren does not. I enter my code again but no change. I ended up going out to the garage and removing the power from the siren to get it to stop. So I'm thinking why did that just happen as I was right there in the room and I know there was no smoke, no one cooking or using the microwave, and no one in the house smokes. I figure just a glitch as I can't remember the last time I got a false fire or smoke alarm and I know I changed the batteries in this smoke detector just a couple weeks ago so a low battery shouldn't be the problem. I go back to what I was doing and as you can see in the log below about 4 minutes later it goes off again and again after a few seconds smoke is no longer detected. This time when I acknowledge the phone call and silence the alarm at the keypad the siren stops as it should. As I write this all is quiet but I still have the kitchen smoke detector on the counter with the batteries pulled. Going to try another pair of batteries AFTER I put it back in service with the current batteries. If I change the batteries now I won't know for sure if the problem was the batteries or something else. All the motion logs are me moving about the house and out to the garage to silence the siren. Notice that from 6:02 until the first alarm at 7:08 nothing is happening (or logged anyway), I didn't delete anything from the event log for the portion you see below. 07-09-2017 7:13:10 am Smoke 2 Kitchen Smoke was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:13:04 am CS 7 MBR Closed 07-09-2017 7:12:55 am Smoke Alarm by Smoke 2 Kitchen 07-09-2017 7:12:55 am Smoke 2 Kitchen Smoke was detected 07-09-2017 7:12:33 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:12:26 am CS 3 Back Closed 07-09-2017 7:12:22 am CS 3 Back Opened 07-09-2017 7:11:59 am CS 3 Back Closed 07-09-2017 7:11:58 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:11:55 am CS 3 Back Opened 07-09-2017 7:11:45 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:11:29 am MS 5 Garage Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:11:28 am CS 3 Back Closed 07-09-2017 7:11:23 am CS 3 Back Opened 07-09-2017 7:11:17 am CS 7 MBR Opened 07-09-2017 7:11:10 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:11:09 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:10:59 am CS 1 Garage Closed 07-09-2017 7:10:41 am SP 06 Garage Light Switched on by the rule Garage Motion 07-09-2017 7:10:41 am MS 5 Garage Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:10:38 am CS 1 Garage Opened 07-09-2017 7:10:35 am CS 3 Back Closed 07-09-2017 7:10:34 am MS 9 Breezeway Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:10:34 am MS 7 Living Room Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:10:32 am CS 3 Back Opened 07-09-2017 7:10:30 am MS 2 Rear Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:09:59 am MS 7 Living Room Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:09:56 am MS 2 Rear Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:09:48 am MS 2 Rear Motion was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:08:44 am Smoke 2 Kitchen Smoke was no longer detected 07-09-2017 7:08:42 am MS 2 Rear Motion was detected 07-09-2017 7:08:31 am Smoke Alarm by Smoke 2 Kitchen 07-09-2017 7:08:31 am Smoke 2 Kitchen Smoke was detected 07-09-2017 6:02:00 am Scene Run Scene Turn OFF Lights was run I should add that if it weren't for John's web portal I would not have that detailed event log, the Iris web site (which is STILL in beta) is a POC.
  26. 1 like
    I also just loaded a solid black picture so that the screen is usable. The blurred image in the background is just a horrible concept and does nothing but make the white text unreadable over light areas of a picture. The whole bland interface needs a serious human factors assessment and some addition of color coding to quickly find a card without having to read them all in tiny text and to indicate the on/off states of objects. What the heck are they waiting for? And please scrap the house image if it speeds up the app loading!
  27. 1 like
    http://swidget.com/ Just saw this something to look at. I don't think it will go anywhere. Nothing really new
  28. 1 like
    It's not "official", but it has a lot more functionality than Lowe's official site. It was created by @thegillion who has been a member of this forum since July of 2015.
  29. 1 like
    Just in case someone else who is interested in this topic reads this I thought I would share my results. I bought the GE Smart Switch #45856GE which is a ZigBee device. I chose this one because I read others were having problems with Zwave devices and ZigBee seems to be IRIS's native language. I installed it in the master bedroom walk in closet per the instructions and as soon as I turned the power back on it automatically paired. I created a rule to turn the the switch on when motion is detected. It works like a champ including turning the switch off after no motion is detected for 30 seconds. The old standard wall motion detector switch worked well turning the light on slightly faster than IRIS but sometimes when my wife and I were out of the sensors view it would turn off the light while we were still in the closet. So far the IRIS Gen 2 motion sensor detects us even when we barely move and hasn't turned the lights out on us yet. I haven't had much luck with Zwave devices. My Zwave siren only works when it's within about 8' of the hub. I just tried installing a Zwave garage door controller about 30' away from the hub through three walls and despite being paired it can not communicate with the hub over that distance. A Smart Plug which is a ZigBee device can turn a light in my garage off and on even though it is farther away from the hub than the Zwave garage door controller.
  30. 1 like
    I know there are others on this forum with a lot more than 120 devices on their systems. I'm probably two thirds of the way to finishing my build-out so I still have a ways to go. If you add up all the sensors on every door and window, the multiple motions sensors, cameras, thermostats, GDOs, sprinkler and hose controllers, light switches, outlets, vents, connected bulbs, leak detectors, sirens, etc, etc, it all adds up. Not to mention the Amazon Alexa integration and my Blue Iris video surveillance system. This has turned into a fairly expensive addiction. The only things I'm doing that may be out of the ordinary is I have modified a non-supported Chamberlain garage door opener to work with Iris and I am using an Iris thermostat to control a mili-volt gas fireplace. I am also using a LeakSmart valve outside to control a secondary water shutoff for my sprinkling system along with several Iris smart plugs mounted in sprinkler control boxes throughout my yard that are controlling outdoor accent lighting and water features. On another note your member status is based on the number of posts you've made. The ranking is as follows: Newbie 0 - 29 Member 30 - 99 Advance Member 100+ It looks like you just advanced to "Member" status, but have a ways to go to get to "Advance Member".
  31. 1 like
    On a side note, you mentioned that your siren didn't stop when you canceled the alarm so you had to pull the batteries. I have had that same thing happen once or twice when I forgot the alarm was on and opened a door, it would be bad if it happened when I wasn't home since I would have no way to turn it off. I tried to plug my siren in instead of using batteries so I could put a smart plug on it however it wouldn't run off the power jack.
  32. 1 like
    This is from First Alert's web site: I get a false alarm from my smoke alarm. Why does my smoke alarm sound when I can't see smoke? If you feel like you are getting a false alarm from your smoke alarm (not a low battery chirp) often, please review the following known reason: Cover or Sensor Chamber is Covered by Dust or Dirt. Alarms may look clean, but dust can accumulate inside the cover, especially in newly built homes. Gently vacuum smoke alarms regularly using the soft brush attachment. Be sure electricians install the provided dust cover to keep alarm clean during construction. Power Interruptions or loose connections to AC/DC hardwired Smoke Alarms. Smoke alarms may alarm briefly when power is interrupted, then restored. Power interruptions are common in areas where utility companies switch grids in the early hours of the morning. When the furnace is turned on for first use or the alarm is to close to the furnace. Humidity - Ionization smoke alarms are more susceptible to nuisance alarms when placed near a bathroom or other potentially high humidity areas. Cooking - According to a survey performed by First Alert, nearly 7 out of 10 Americans have had a smoke detector alarm because of smoke from cooking. Smoke Alarm May Need to be Relocated - If possible, install smoke alarms at least 20 feet from appliances like furnaces and ovens, which produce combustion particles. Alarms should be at least 10 feet from high humidity areas like showers and laundry rooms, and at least 3 feet from heat/AC vents and fluorescent lights whenever possible. In areas where a 20-foot (6 meter) distance is not possible - in modular, mobile, or smaller homes, for example; it is recommended the Smoke Alarm be placed as far from these fuel-burning sources as possible. The placement recommendations are intended to keep these Alarms at a reasonable distance from a fuel-burning source, and thus reduce false alarms.
  33. 1 like
    He must have been looking at that half-baked solution Iris put out a few months ago. You know the one that is still in beta.
  34. 1 like
    I have 120 devices and a 2 second reset is not going to hurt anything, in fact it may resolve your issue. When you push the reset button the hub will beep after 2 seconds at which point you should stop pressing the button. If you continue to hold the button longer than 20 seconds you will factory reset your hub at which point you will have to start over. As an alternative to using the reset button you can use thegillion's Web Portal and do a hub hard reboot.
  35. 1 like
    If you go to your Lights & Switches Card, DEVICES will be highlighted at the top. To the right of that, you will see SCHEDULE grayed out. Tap that word, and the schedule list for your lights and switches will come up. Find your device and set the schedule for it.
  36. 1 like
  37. 1 like
    You need to put the hub in pairing mode before disconnecting from ethernet cable.
  38. 1 like
    And what we are trying to say is it's not the platform or even the firmware. There are a lot of folks out there with stable systems using whatever firmware has been pushed out by Iris.
  39. 1 like
    Probably not, did you try the Z-wave removal tool? If the Z-wave removal tool doesn't find the device then it's more than likely a coverage issue. You'll have to move the hub closer to the switch.
  40. 1 like
    I personally have asked Alexa to set a temp, what the temp is currently set at and what is the current temperature reading of the thermostat. These three things are pretty much all I really need anyway. Haven't tried to do any mode settings. Although I doubt the fan would work since you can't even control it through the Iris app.
  41. 1 like
    Because of the high rate of false alarms due to motion sensing devices, most modern alarm panel software (by the way, modern in the alarm industry is the last 20 years) now include a false-alarm reduction feature called Cross Zoning, where two motion zones are required to trigger an alarm. If a motion on one zone trips, the panel will wait for a period for a second motion zone to trip before declaring an alarm. The motion detector zones and the time required to trip both zones are all user-configurable. Of course, the other route is to use better motion detectors more appropriate for the application. I'm glad IRIS has gone with the professional monitoring route as that motivated them to finally improve on their implementation of an alarm system. 2 zones no longer mean ANY two zones. No more do the burglars have to open and crawl through a window/door AND trip a motion detector to finally trigger the alarm system if you have multi-zone setup. It's now two motion sensing sensors with an appropriate time delay (5 minutes, I think?) not unlike Cross Zoning. Also happy there are high-end 3rd party motion sensors that can be used in the IRIS ecosystem to avoid the need for multi-zone alarming in the first place (Bosch, which I use, and reportedly a GE model on these forums), not just the standard IRIS stuff. Yay progress!
  42. 1 like
    I don't know if anyone else has noticed this, but the basic halo smoke detector is about $30 cheaper at HD than Lowes. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-Smart-Smoke-and-CO-Alarm-HSR761H/301891654 The one that does weather alerts also is about $15 less.
  43. 1 like
    Contrary to what some users believe, connectivity issues is not the norm. If you are experiencing disconnects, you have other underlying issues.
  44. 1 like
    You're probably right about that Sparc. I'm definitely holding off a few months before even thinking about buying one of these. The days of me pre-ordering alpha/beta tech are over...been burned too many times already. Amazon is due for a dud after Echo's grand entrance...Echo Show could be it...I'll let others test it first.
  45. 1 like
    Under the hood I bet the Echo Show is nothing more than a kindle with a speaker and power supply built into the unit for thrice the price.
  46. 1 like
    There is no way to change this within the app. It's a bit confusing, but the app highlights the available action. In the screenshot below the TP LINK EXTENDER and TV are both on while the other four devices are off. The device icon is always highlighted when the device is on.
  47. 1 like
    Mine is a beagle-Jack Russel mix. He is also a very sweet dog, but can be pretty high strung at times! I just got a bosh sensor and it is a great product. Makes me want to replace all my existing motion detectors with these! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  48. 1 like
    Update 1.2.4 -Added Event Log page under Troubleshooting -Added SHANE to system status. -Cleaned up the code some.
  49. 1 like
    I've had my IRIS GDO controller installed for 2.5 weeks now. Twice I've received a notification that the door is opening when it is not (I have a separate NYCE tilt sensor as back-up, so I can tell it isn't actually opening). Although I received a notification from the GDO that is open, it does not show in the history. The device page does show the status as "opening" for several minutes. Then I get a notification that the door is closed, and that DOES show up in the history. I seem to recall someone posting that this is a known issue that IRIS is aware of and working to fix, but I can't find that post. Is this a common occurrence for others, and is IRIS working on it?
  50. 1 like
    I ordered on phone direct from the fan supplier. These are replacement parts for the 52" Gardinier Fan that is Wink controlled. I called them up at 800-749-3267....push 1 for English...then you get a recording in which lady tells you to have the 12 digit UPC code for your fan..if don't have UPC, she says call back when you do...I didn't have a 12 digit UPC... stay on line...next a guy says "push 1 for ceiling fans"..you then get a human finally. She asks what fan you have...just tell her you need the Wink receiver and remote & that you don't have fan...you want parts only... She knows what you're talking about...she said a LOT of people are ordering these things...guess a lot of ST & Wink users are in same boat I am. Home Depot could sell a ton of these if they'd stock them, especially if they retail them at the $49.00 price point they show online, but never have in stock. LOL I'll keep you posted.