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Showing most liked content since 10/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    Hacking the 2.0 Hub.

    If I can get past the login. I can add my own software to the hub like shane or bring texting back to the hub.
  2. 1 point

    Local Processing Is Here

    I had someone from iris direct message me on the 'official' forum. They checked my hub ID and confirmed that local processing was enabled at my place. I guess if they have enough people bug them about it, maybe they will come up with a way to show local processing status within the app.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    I love my IRIS system! However, I have suggested this in the past, but thought I would suggest it again. Please add a rule for “water alarm triggered, turn smart plug on/off”. IRIS already has the “Alarm Tiggered Turn Lights On” rule that would work perfect if “X water leak sensor triggered” were added. I have had significant problems with my floor drain backing up with water when it rains heavily. Currently I have a water leak sensor at the floor drain and when the alarm is triggered and I’m not home I turn on a smart plug plugged into a water pump so my basement doesn’t flood. At the same time I also turn off another smart plug that is connected to my home humidifier that drains into the floor drain. I have done this a couple of times (even once from Mexico) but someday I’m not going to get the alarm and my basement will flood simply because this rule does not exist. Other uses of this would be as a backup for a failed sump pump, etc. Thanks, Richard
  5. 1 point

    Iris Camera Quality

    I agree. There is no comparison between the Iris cameras and other surveillance systems. Moving off from Iris to Amcrest was one of the best things I've done. I can't say enough about how much better the quality is and the ability to record sound to a local DVR that retains 4 TB of video quality for roughly 45 days is incredible. I have now seven cameras recording at 1080P quality.
  6. 1 point

    Iris web portal V1.2.8

    Here you go...
  7. 1 point

    MS-DOS Smart Home Automation

    Needing to replace my X-10/Plug-N-Pow'r equipment is what led me to Iris. My modules and mini-controllers kept burning out, and the commands didn't always work b/c I have a 2-breaker box wiring system (the through-the-wire commands would often not make the leap between the boxes). One unique feature I really miss, though, was the "Random" setting for the lighting modules. It was used to make your house's lighting less "patterned" so that it looked more lived in when you weren't home. For instance, if I programmed a light to come on at 7pm and had it on the Random setting, it would vary the time that the light came on by as much as an hour each day. I wish Iris had such a feature.
  8. 1 point

    Iris Camera Quality

    Blue Iris has awesome motion sensing capabilities that are highly configurable and works with the majority of IP based cameras. http://blueirissoftware.com/
  9. 1 point
    Nanker Phelge

    Iris Camera Quality

    Recently our cars were went through at night. Lost some change and a car cell phone charger. The V1 camera missed it all. It seems it only records on motion when headlights pass by. In V1 it would record animals going through the yard at night, no longer. I am moving to local recording as I can't get the results from Iris I can trust.
  10. 1 point

    Water heater temperature adj on app

    I know this is a vacation home but generally speaking many, including the NIH and most state plumbing codes, want you to keep the temp at 140°F or slightly higher to avoid the risk of Legionella. It's considered safer to keep the temp in the water heater higher and use a temperature reducer or mixing valve at the point of use to avoid scalding. In studies electric water heaters were most susceptible to this when operated at reduced temperatures. I have not seen any discussion of your situation which is not unique as I have no doubt there are thousands who do as you do with their vacation home water heaters. I know the convenience issue within the app is what you are worried about here, but I am suggesting that possibly the reduced temperature is more of a threat than you might have thought, and the problem with the app is minor in comparison. "The optimal temperature for Legionella proliferation in water varies between 32°C and 35°C (89.6 - 95°F), but it can easily proliferate at temperatures of up to 45°C. Usually, there is no growth above 55°C, and a temperature of over 60°C (140°F) has a bactericidal effect. Thus, the WHO recommends that water be heated and stored at 60°C (3). However, studies in Quebec have shown, even when the thermostat is set at 60°C, a high percentage (approximately 40%) of electric water heaters remain contaminated because of the lower temperature, about 30°C to 40°C at the bottom of the tank. The probability of contamination will increase considerably if the temperature setting is lowered to 49°C. The risk of contamination is much lower for water heaters operating with fossil fuels, and is practically nonexistent for these heaters set at 60°C." See the whole article from the National Institute of Health. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2094925/
  11. 1 point

    Hub not updating?

    Sorry I didn't post and update. I spoke with customer support twice. The first time the CS rep did a restart of the hub remotely and told me that would solve the problem. Of course, it did not and I called back. Second time I explained the situation and I kept being put on hold as the CS rep spoke to higher level tech support. I was instructed to rest the hub myself by removing from power and battery back-up, which I did. The rep told me that this should solve the problem and that the hub should update eventually. I mentioned that the hub has failed to update for numerous updates (again) and I was not confident that this would resolve the issue. I also asked for a more definitive estimate than "eventually" regarding the update, but one couldn't be provided. I had asked to be taken to next level support but it did not happen. We hung up with my being pessimistic regarding an eventual firmware update. To my surprise, about fifteen minutes later I noticed the firmware was update to .57. I then received a call from true Tech Support at Lowe's who proceeded to tell me that they pushed the update through and they were glad I called because at some point down the road it may have been impossible to catch-up with my outdated firmware. They couldn't tell my why my hub wasn't updating but it did get resolved. I guess the CS rep I was speaking with spoke to tech support after we hung up and a light bulb must have gone off and they actually looked at my account. I came away happy that the issue appears to be resolved in that I was at least moved up to current firmware, we'll see if I get them in the future (I am still on .57). However, I was disappointed with the level of support on the phone as both CS reps I spoke with seemed very low level and not able to address any serious technical questions. I definitely felt like the second CS rep was just relaying info to the tech team and then getting back to me with information getting "lost in the translation." It was probably the least impressed I have been with CS reps I have spoken to regarding technical support, at least that I can recall.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point

    If this and this then that?

    I haven't tried this, but logically it should work: Schedule your holiday lights to turn on and off at desired times. For this example I'll use sunset to 10:00 PM. Create two scenes that includes only your holiday lights. One to turn them on and the other to turn them off. Create a rule "run a scene when I leave" that includes the scene to turn your holiday lights off and triggered by the desired key fob. Schedule this rule to run with a start time of 2 minutes after sunset to the desired end time (at or before 10:00 PM). Create another rule "run a scene when I arrive" that includes the scene to turn your holiday lights on and triggered by the same key fob used in step 3. Schedule this rule to run with a start time of sunset to the desired end time (at or before 10:00 PM). You may have to adjust the trigger time in step 3 because your lights will come on at sunset and stay on until the system confirms the key fob is missing from your network. This could take an additional 2 - 10 minutes.
  14. 1 point
    So last night I added an additional camera to my system. This one is outside... (some kids have been messing with my mailbox and I'm not sure if they have taken anything). The next time I left I set the alarm and before I could get to the end of my road I got a call from the monitoring station... I knew immediately what it was... Apparently when you add a camera to your system it is automatically participating in your alarms, so of course the camera caught my car on the way out and triggered the alarm. I would think that you should have to manually tell a motion detector or camera which alarms to participate in, but I guess that's not the case... Another interesting tidbit: If a device is participating in an alarm which is armed and you remove it, it will continue to participate in that alarm until you disarm and re-arm it. Once I got off the phone with the monitoring center I re-armed the alarm (showing 20 participating devices), and then changed the new camera to "not participating"... When I returned to the alarms screen, it still showed 20/20 until I disarmed the alarm and re-armed, at which point it changed to 19/19.
  15. 1 point

    What just happened???

    I guess hell can freeze over....
  16. 1 point

    Iris App Version 2.6.0

    On the official iris forum there was an update on the status of offline processing yesterday. Apparently a lot of our devices have already been updated to handle offline processing but there is still some work to do before they flip the switch and turn it on. https://community.irisbylowes.com/t5/Feature-Suggestions/Offline-processing/idi-p/107/page/4#comments
  17. 1 point

    Logitech Harmony Smart Control and Alexa

    I use it pretty much every night to turn on Netflix which turns on the receiver and TV, and sets the appropriate settings on each, then I also use it to turn it all off occasionally. I use the remote to move around and select things and mos of the time to turn it off as well. I also have one of my ceiling fans on it via IR but if I ask Alexa to turn that fan or light on when I'm watching TV the Harmony turns off the Entertainment center which I haven't found a great way to avoid with the limited power options they give.