Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 09/22/2017 in Posts

  1. 2 points

    Hacking the 2.0 Hub.

    If I can get past the login. I can add my own software to the hub like shane or bring texting back to the hub.
  2. 1 point
    So last night I added an additional camera to my system. This one is outside... (some kids have been messing with my mailbox and I'm not sure if they have taken anything). The next time I left I set the alarm and before I could get to the end of my road I got a call from the monitoring station... I knew immediately what it was... Apparently when you add a camera to your system it is automatically participating in your alarms, so of course the camera caught my car on the way out and triggered the alarm. I would think that you should have to manually tell a motion detector or camera which alarms to participate in, but I guess that's not the case... Another interesting tidbit: If a device is participating in an alarm which is armed and you remove it, it will continue to participate in that alarm until you disarm and re-arm it. Once I got off the phone with the monitoring center I re-armed the alarm (showing 20 participating devices), and then changed the new camera to "not participating"... When I returned to the alarms screen, it still showed 20/20 until I disarmed the alarm and re-armed, at which point it changed to 19/19.
  3. 1 point

    What just happened???

    I guess hell can freeze over....
  4. 1 point

    Iris App Version 2.6.0

    On the official iris forum there was an update on the status of offline processing yesterday. Apparently a lot of our devices have already been updated to handle offline processing but there is still some work to do before they flip the switch and turn it on. https://community.irisbylowes.com/t5/Feature-Suggestions/Offline-processing/idi-p/107/page/4#comments
  5. 1 point

    Logitech Harmony Smart Control and Alexa

    I use it pretty much every night to turn on Netflix which turns on the receiver and TV, and sets the appropriate settings on each, then I also use it to turn it all off occasionally. I use the remote to move around and select things and mos of the time to turn it off as well. I also have one of my ceiling fans on it via IR but if I ask Alexa to turn that fan or light on when I'm watching TV the Harmony turns off the Entertainment center which I haven't found a great way to avoid with the limited power options they give.
  6. 1 point
    I use the same hub but the elite remote. I used Alexa for a short time when they had 2 skills for Harmony. I have to get the remote for searching the guide anyway, so we pretty much abandoned using Alexa. It worked well when we did use it. Great for turning on all equipment to a specific activity, and when shutting everything off to leave the room. I absolutely love the Harmony lineup and have used their remotes for years.
  7. 1 point
    I'd also pull the heat sink strips off of the right switch. Probably not worth much benefit but you never know and it'll take 10 seconds to do it.
  8. 1 point
    I've had Tier 2 folks recommend doing the Z-wave removal 6 or 8 times in a row to "make sure the system fully recognizes the removal of the device." Can't hurt. The factory reset suggestion often follows.
  9. 1 point

    Iris App Version 2.6.0

    If this was the case, you would think it would be indicated in the release notes. (This has been a HIGHLY REQUESTED feature). Strange... Has anyone tested this yet?
  10. 1 point

    Osram bulb experience?

    What I usually do/did is leave the bulb connected in Iris, do a factory reset on the bulb which breaks it's pairing internally, pair it to the OSRAM/Smartthings hub, do the update, remove the bulb from the other hub(s) and the bulb will flash showing it was unpaired. Then I go back into Iris and go through the steps like I am adding a device, the hub will beep but nothing will show up on the screen, the bulb will flash and it is installed back without having to go back in on Iris and setup all your rules/scenes/etc for that device.
  11. 1 point
    You should only have to do this once and then complete a factory reset. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OF8t08pI-n4
  12. 1 point
    Yes, that is correct.
  13. 1 point
    Like I mentioned before, I suspect your Z-wave network isn't strong enough to maintain a solid connection to these devices. If you could provide the info that was previously asked for, we may be able to help you determine what's happening.
  14. 1 point

    New V1 stock?

    So I went to my local Lowes only to see this.
  15. 1 point

    New to Iris, but not happy

    No it isn’t common. Make sure your hub isn’t around anything metal as it will interrupt the signal and make sure you pair new devices within 10 feet of the hub so they pair correctly. I am in the process of moving and I put my networking gear near the hub and it threw my system all out of wack. I had to move it two shelves up from the equipment to get my disconnected devices connect again.
  16. 1 point
    The Gillion's Iris Web Portal has a tool that allows you to download your Z-wave mesh map, which looks kind of like an old Spirograph drawing. It shows in graphic form what path your devices use to get a signal to the hub, i.e, what other Z-wave devices are in the mesh between your problem device(s) and the hub. You may find that just one device is causing all your trouble if it is in the mesh path for the problem switches. I believe at least some customer service folks have access to analytics that show that information as well (not sure if Tier 1 uses it). The tool is accessed through the little red wrench at the bottom of the menu on the left, just above the Donate button. There is also a download button for Graphviz that allows you to read the map. There are posts from several months ago that give some detail on how it works.
  17. 1 point
    For those having problems with Z-Wave and metal boxes, could you possibly perform a test? It's not safe and I would not suggest doing so if there are any children at home but if you could do it safely, maybe by taping off any exposed connections, but try pulling the switch out of the gang box exposing all sides and see if the problem goes away?
  18. 1 point
    What is the total zwave count? Pm me if you'd rather not disclose this openly.
  19. 1 point
    Are these switches installed in metal electrical boxes and how many AC powered z-wave devices (including Gen 2 smart plugs) do you have in your network? It may be that your z-wave network just isn't efficient enough to maintain a connection to theses devices.
  20. 1 point
    I wonder if there is another device they are routing through that is causing your trouble. Is there any other z-wave device on your system that disconnects other than the switches? Have you tried mapping what those devices connect to in your mesh?
  21. 1 point

    New echo to be smart home hub

    https://www.digitaltrends.com/home/amazon-alexa/ Interesting... This article mentions grouping devices by room, so that commands like "turn on the lights" will know which room you are in and only turn on the lights for that room. If that is true, I'm not sure why this new feature is not getting more attention. I get tired of having to say "turn on THE LIVING ROOM lights", "turn on THE BEDROOM lights", etc... Sometimes I forget how rooms are named (Bedroom vs Master Bedroom) If a room has its own echo, it should be able to link the devices in that room so it can make some assumptions about "which device" you are wanting to control. Sounds like lots of cool stuff coming to the echo soon!
  22. 1 point

    New echo to be smart home hub

    I think the big difference is a routine will allow some devices to be turned OFF while others are turned ON with the same command. Right now you can create groups, but it is either ALL ON or ALL OFF. Also, given the example, it sounds like you will not have to use a "turn on" phrase to execute the routine. Right now you can create a scene in iris called "good morning", but you would have to tell alexa to "turn on good morning", which is awkward. It will be interesting to see if routines can be named anything, or if you have to stick with a list of approved routine names. It will also be nice to be able to chain things like flash briefings or weather forecasts to routines also containing smart home commands.
  23. 1 point

    New V1 stock?

    Ok now I'm confused? I think this would be good news though, the V1 contact sensors are so much better.... IMHO. The smart plugs, I have both, I prefer the V2 just for the repeater function. On the motion sensors, I only have V1. Overall the build quality seems better on V1 stuff anyways. *Edit* So I just looked on the website, V1 stuff is back on the website as well.
  24. 1 point

    Garage Security

    I'm in upstate NY and have an unheated/uncooled shop that is about 30' x 40'. At one end is a garage door (with no opener) and the other is sliding barn style doors. I have a camera inside above each door pointing at the opposite door and two ceiling mounted v1 motion sensors pointing straight down about 12' from each door. Each camera covers the opposite half of the building well. I use all 4 devices as alarm triggers and require two motion sensors to trigger an alarm. Except for when my cameras were flaky a couple of months ago, it has worked really well. The motion sensors and cameras pick up motion as soon as I step into the building. I also record for 30 seconds on movement. The temperature doesn't seem to affect the devices much. I just changed the battery in one motion sensor after more than a year of service.
  25. 1 point