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Showing most liked content since 05/28/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    Using thegillions web portal, I was able to determine that my backup modem had only one bar of signal strength. After doing some research I discovered that our modems have CRC9 antenna connections. I ordered an antenna as pictured below for under $15 to see if it would help the situation with the expectation of very little improvement. I figured at that cost it was worth a shot. Well that antenna arrived today and there were a couple of surprises. First this thing is much larger than I expected. I had envisioned that it was maybe a couple of inches square. Well it is six inches by six inches. The second surprise is that after plugging it in and setting it up I was at five bars of signal strength. Well worth the price and effort in my book. Edit: Turns out the connector needed is a CRC9 which is why mine needed a small squeeze to tighten up. I corrected the post above. Before: After: The Monster:
  2. 4 likes
    I'd like to see them revive the production of the V1 sensors and smart buttons. The quality is just so much better on the V1 devices.
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    I'm going to be honest here. The reason I started this thread is because I'm tired of the lingering issues we are having that have been reported to the team month after month after month such as the following. These are all V1 parity issues except for Echo. Scenes that properly control locks. Right now a scene will not properly lock more than 2 locks at a time. The problem has been going on for a very long time. Lighting duration rules that work with multiple trigger and target devices. It is impossible to keep a light on using two motion sensors at the same time. Care rule time options vs current minimum of 30 minutes. We need more choices that are less than 30 minutes. Battery percentages for less than 70% vs current 30%. Echo advanced skills. Based on the fact that Lowe's no longer sells Echo, I don't hold much hope for getting advanced skills. I invested heavily in Echos based on the fact that this was coming at one time. This is truly the most disappointing turn of events yet because Echo has been one of the few things that just worked properly upon initial release. Energy Monitoring is missing. Water softener flow rate monitoring with the ability to alert for excessive flow via email or push and associated shut off rules that were available with v1 is missing.
  4. 3 likes
    After about two years, the GE zwave light switch that was running my 1 HP 120 V pool pump stopped working. It was disconnected more than it was connected, where it used to be rock solid. I splurged on the GE 12726 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and installed it yesterday. It was simple to install and paired up faster than any other zwave device I have. It did so about 50 ft from the hub, where line of sight takes the signal through an exterior wall, two walls of a garage, then through an 18' diameter above ground pool. There is a GDO in between this device and the hub. The front of the box has a couple of LED's showing status and a rubber covered button to turn on/off the load without having to open the cover. Granted, it's been paired for less than 24 hours, but so far, so good. I'll update this thread after a few weeks, or sooner if I start to have problems with it. -Jim C A few notes for those who may be interested: The Iris app, Iris+, and thegillion's portal show it as a switch, though Iris shows 'uncertified device' at the bottom of the Iris device page. On/Off controls function perfectly in all three. Scheduling and rules work perfectly. The Iris app and thegillion's portal both show energy usage which appears to be accurate (about 680 watts for the 1 HP motor). Iris+ doesn't show the device under Energy Usage. Both Iris+ and thegillion's portal show it as having 0% battery, but it does not use a battery. On thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, the device exists under Battery Level (0%), but not Signal Level (EDIT: I just realized that zwave devices are not listed under Signal) The model number is not listed under the device on the Iris app, but is listed correctly in Iris+ and on thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, All Devices.
  5. 3 likes
    Or you could attach one of these to the dashboard of your car. https://www.lowes.com/pd/PostMaster-Replacement-Mailbox-Flag-Kit/3024896
  6. 2 likes
    When is Lowe’s hiring you to get their portal up to snuff with yours.
  7. 2 likes
    Happiness... I received my valve and it was exactly what I ordered. It makes me wish I had ordered more.
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    If they would add Geo-Fencing and rules based on presence then these type of aggravations go away. This is the same issue I had with motion notifications in my shop. or doors opening or closing. When I am home I don't care but when I am away I want the notifications.
  9. 2 likes
    Jury comes back with verdict on Halo for me: After debating on whether to keep my Halo Plus's after only installing one of them, this past Sunday before Memorial Day finalized my decision: I do not watch TV or weather...haven't done so in over 5 yrs. If someone tells me about the weather at grocery store or wherever, that's how I get my weather. LOL. TV shows & movies are just a waste of time for me as well. I installed one of 2 Halo Plus the other day and Sunday May 28 at about 5:00 PM my Halo Plus goes off with a tornado warning for my area. Hail and damaging winds etc. Local area was hit hard with downed trees, power lines, etc. Electricity goes off at 5:15 PM Sunday and just came back on last night, Tuesday May 30. Needless to say, I'm keeping my Halo Plus. Installing my second Halo+ too. I can live with the cheesiness of the multi-colored night light. Thanks Halo+!
  10. 2 likes
    As it turns out my dramatic improvement was caused from the antenna picking up a very strong 3G signal vs a very weak 4G signal without it. I put the usb dongle in a computer and did a speed test for both weak 4G and strong 3G and was better off with the strong 3G. Using the computer software that the dongle loads I set mine to use 3G only and have had consistent 5 bars since. I have the logo facing towards the closest tower and it is inside the house. Testing with and without the antenna showed speed improvements with the antenna in all cases for me. Three to four bars of 4G should be more than enough signal.
  11. 2 likes
    The reviews are clear, most people just want the system to do what it did before. They need to go back to basics before worrying about all the new features. There are still several things V2 does not do that V1 did do. They keep adding in new features, some of which work, some of which just sort of work. The entire time all the reviews keep pointing to the fact that we want our systems to work the way they did before. My positive review is no review at all, because I can't give it a review. I'd be scared to recommend the system to anyone at this point, because I'm not sure how much longer it will be around. It's disappearing from stores. Stores don't stock items anymore. However a positive review says they are doing things right. In my opinion, they haven't got it right yet. So while you're right, my system mostly works the way Lowes / Iris thinks it should, it fails to do things the original product I purchased does. Do you know long we've been promised this or that has been coming. They just up and do things like decide garage door controllers don't need to be alarm devices anymore leaving our homes unprotected and don't warn anyone about the change. It's so aggravating because they could be great... They could be best system out there, they just keep narrowly missing the mark. They just refuse to listen and don't I know why. They are making attempts, but the changes seem to be coming very slowly. This may just be because they attached to a huge company, and have to deal with overhead that brings.
  12. 2 likes
    For those of you that are using Blue Iris for a 3rd party camera interface the latest version ( now provides Alexa integration. I copied the following from the help section: Amazon Echo Most Amazon Echo home automation integration requires a solution provider to establish a dedicated central web server. However, the Blue Iris model has always been private, local control without a central-server requirement--your video and system control commands never pass through a third-party server and no Internet connection is required. Therefore in order to get Amazon Echo to talk to your Blue Iris PC directly, we have had to implement this functionality via device emulation--there are a few home automation devices with which Echo can communicate directly, such as the Philips Hue lighting systems and WeMo devices, and Blue Iris will appear to Echo as one of these. To get started, you should have your Echo and your Blue Iris PC on the same LAN. If you have multiple subnets (routers), the Echo and your PC should be configured in such a way that they are visible to each other on the network. In addition to basic control of the traffic signal icon and profile#, you may choose to add individual camera control as well--please see the Amazon Echo setting on each camera's properties pages. Next, use the Connect to Amazon Echo button on Options/Mobile devices. This will make your PC discoverable by the Echo device via UPNP technology. You will be notified once the Echo is able to successfully connect. If you add or remove any camera from Echo control, or if your PC's LAN address changes, you should re-run this discovery step in order to find any newly added cameras. To fully remove a camera from Echo control you may need to use the Alexa app on your Smartphone. In addition, to fully remove Echo access to your Blue Iris, you should delete the user entry that's created on Options/Mobile devices. Once discovery is successful, you're ready to issue commands to your Echo such as: "Alexa, turn Blue Iris On" to set the traffic signal icon to yellow/green "Alexa, turn Blue Iris Off" to set the traffic signal icon to red "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 10%" to set profile 1 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 50%" to set profile 5 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 100%" to resume the normal schedule For individual camera control (if configured on camera properties page prior to discovery), you can issue commands such as: "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 On" to enable, pause, record, or select the camera (as configured) "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 Off" to disable, un-pause, stop recording, or de-select the camera "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 10%" to move to PTZ preset 1 "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 50%" to move to PTZ preset 5 Sure in a perfect world, we would not use percentages to control presets and profiles, this is a side-effect of the light-bulb device emulation. If Amazon opens the ASK API (Amazon Skill Kit Application Programming Interface) to further direct device control manufacturers, or if Blue Iris builds-out a full user portal website, this may change. You may also see additional HA integration, such as Hue and WeMo control directly through Blue Iris.
  13. 1 like
    Under the hood I bet the Echo Show is nothing more than a kindle with a speaker and power supply built into the unit for thrice the price.
  14. 1 like
    There is no way to change this within the app. It's a bit confusing, but the app highlights the available action. In the screenshot below the TP LINK EXTENDER and TV are both on while the other four devices are off. The device icon is always highlighted when the device is on.
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    Mine is a beagle-Jack Russel mix. He is also a very sweet dog, but can be pretty high strung at times! I just got a bosh sensor and it is a great product. Makes me want to replace all my existing motion detectors with these! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 like
    Update 1.2.4 -Added Event Log page under Troubleshooting -Added SHANE to system status. -Cleaned up the code some.
  18. 1 like
    There was an outage with Amazon web services. I got an email from SmartThings about it, last night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. 1 like
    I have had somewhat of a similar experience (aside from my rate of system expansion). I'd say I'd give it a B+ or A-. I started with security and a thermostat (I think it was called the "smart kit"), but have went crazy adding new devices. I held out for the V2 changeover also, and it was mostly a flawless transition other than some issues with my thermostat. Eventually I got tired of fooling with the t-stat and switched over to nest. Fast forward 2 years from my initial install and I have 71 paired devices including all my light switches and fan speed controls, lamps, led under cabinet lights, contact sensors for all exterior doors and windows, motion detectors in every room, cameras, door locks, smoke detectors, sirens, a leak detector, hose timer, 40G water heater, etc... I also have a contact sensor in the mailbox as well as one protecting a gun safe. I also have the 4G cellular modem with the pro monitoring package. We use echo dots from one end of the house to the other, and also have an echo dash wand with alexa which can be used as sort of a handheld voice remote (can also be done with our fire tv remote). We use the harmony hub with alexa to control our entertainment system, and I have even rigged up a remote/emergency release for our dog's kennel. I say all that to say I am constantly adding devices, and rarely have I had any issues. In fact, the thermostat issues I had seem like they have been resolved because I gave my thermostat to my parrents to use on their iris system and they have had no problems with it.
  20. 1 like
    I seem to be in the minority. I give my system a solid to high B. I was originally looking to get a system for simple security, thinking it would relieve some of my son's anxiety at night. I started with a Vera Edge and bought Iris V1 contact sensors thinking they would work. Once I learned they did not, I realized it would be cheaper to go full Iris instead of keeping the Edge and buying more expensive sensors to cover my needs. I actually caught one of the security package deals at the right time and I think paid $50 or $100 for the package. I had a workable home security system in no time. I was not worried about other capabilities, although I was certainly interested. I was also not a premium member because I did not want to pay the monthly fee. The system has served me well with minimal issues. I waited to migrate to hub V2 until after the migration tool, or whatever it was called, was available. and the migration was successful and pain free. I believe I have only replaced batteries in one sensor plus the keypad since the original install. I have since added three smart plugs, a few Cree bulbs and two Z-Wave GE toggle switches. I don't really think I need any more switches or lights automated, so I am probably set there. The schedules I have set for these work near flawlessly with only an occasional issue. Mostly with one of the Z-Wave switches losing connection. I also have an Echo Dot that integrates as advertised with Iris, which I mostly used during Christmas time to turn the Christmas tree lights on and off as needed. Otherwise, the schedules I use take care of the job. I have taken advantage of the basic plan expansion to include rules and scenes and have a number of them active and working as expected. I sometimes need to adjust when I don't have them setup correctly at first, but it is normally my setup issue. I currently have 32 devices and am very pleased with my level of investment and how the system performs. I wouldn't mind adding a few more things like a thermostat, smoke & CO detectors, water shut-off and some other items but I am in no rush, not because of Iris, but they are nice-to-haves in my opinion. Perhaps my experience is due to the somewhat simple setup and my gradual build up from the security foundation, however it has met my needs. I would feel comfortable purchasing something on the "wish list" when ready with full expectations that the addition would work as expected, based on my experiences to date.
  21. 1 like
    Agreed. I got my two in also and wish I would have took advantage more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 1 like
    I have a ceiling fan that has no wall mounted switch...lights & power are controlled by pull chains, so the GE in wall fan controls for Iris/Wink etc. are out of the question unless I rewire the room. For now I've had to use the Hunter Simpleconnect bluetooth module for this fan which is a pain. I see that Home Depot has a wifi ceiling fan online under Hampton Bay brand, plus they've teased the Wink community for over a year now with a separate wifi Wink fan module for dumb fans. You still can't buy this separate module at Home Depot but you can order it from manufacturer though not as cheap as what Home Depot is supposed to retail it at. It is meant as repair/replacement for the fan. ST and Wink users have confirmed it is working for them in converting dumb ceiling fans to smart for those like me that don't have in-wall fan controls. I am ordering one tomorrow, i.e. module as well as the separate remote. Users say other remotes will work too. Since I have Wink, ST, and Iris I will try it with 1 of the 3 HA platforms. Have any of you tried it with Iris? Read about it here: https://tinyurl.com/y6w3lhsk mojo2600
  23. 1 like
    Ok...here's an update: I got the receiver installed and decided to try Iris first. It paired as an uncertified device as "OSO Technologies"... no surprise to me that it wouldn't work with Iris. I next tried Smartthings and it works great. Unpaired from ST and next tried Wink. It works fine with Wink too. The handheld remote works fine too but I'll use this with Wink and use Alexa to control it. Alexa can only control the light portion of it, but I created Wink shortcuts for the fan motor on, off, speeds 1 -4, and "breeze" setting...then use IFTTT to trigger the Wink shortcuts thus Alexa can now control my fan and light both. This retrofit was much easier than rewiring in-wall switches for my case to control this fan.
  24. 1 like
    I wish you ordered more also... ;(
  25. 1 like
    I am raising my grade to a B based on the improvement in stability, fixing the duration rules and the addition of Echo advanced skills.
  26. 1 like
    Update 1.2.3 -Fixed the irrigation switch bug. -Fixed bug with in-line devices showing no battery in the status
  27. 1 like
    I am really surprised they didn't cancel the orders. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  28. 1 like
    If anyone got an extra they don’t end up using and are looking to sell let me know! That’s what I get for only checking the forums at night lol
  29. 1 like
    Makes you want to have a leak just to test it out.
  30. 1 like
    Check the story at the bottom of the email that was sent from iris today (We were one of the motion sensor giveaway winners and there is a little article with a quote about this pet release rig)
  31. 1 like
    There is a driver update coming any day that will fix this.
  32. 1 like
    As always, you come through -- that solved it! Thanks.
  33. 1 like
    You would be money ahead to just use an Iris smart plug. Then you would get the benefit of repeating both Z-wave and zigbee.
  34. 1 like
    Keep in mind these are Z-wave only range extenders and are not going to help with the issue you are having with your hose controller.
  35. 1 like
    I have an older AC with the turn dials that when powered on starts right up. My newer AC sadly doesn't work this way :/
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    As far as I know Iris support will remain in the US and the pro monitoring is a US based company.
  39. 1 like
    I've already asked and the answer is no, no Iris employees were affected.
  40. 1 like
    I think this is just an app update to support the features that were added with the platform update last week. Might be just cleaning up some code and doing minor bug fixes. The biggest change with this past update is the new rules, which are apparently added during the platform update and show up before the app is updated.
  41. 1 like
    Maybe you could sell them to [mention=4879]sparc[/mention]. He seems to be particularly fond of GE products. [emoji846]
  42. 1 like
    I was just about to say the same thing. GE devices are actually pretty stable.
  43. 1 like
    If I'm understanding your question correctly why not just use a siren instead of relying on the low level beeping from the hub or a keypad? If I had a leak I certainly would want something loud enough to wake me in the middle of the night.
  44. 1 like
    This is similar to the alerts that Chamberlain has had for awhile except Iris now has better duration functionality.
  45. 1 like
    Looks like there's 24 new rules.
  46. 1 like
    oldfredbear, By force removing the device it is removed from your Iris system, but the device probably still thinks it is paired to the system. I don't think there is a way to "reset" these devices, but if you go into the "Devices" list on your Iris app and scroll to the bottom, select "Z-Wave Tools" and then "Remove Z-Wave Devices" you should be able to then press the button on the front of the device and it should remove itself from the network. After that you should be able to pair it again. In general, I always try this if a Z-Wave device will not pair, just to make sure the device does not think it is still on another network (or even thinks it is still on my network, but my hub does not know about the device any longer). Hope that helps.
  47. 1 like
    Seems like the person writing the article doesn't have enough experience with smart home devices to be giving any advice on the subject. In my opinion, the echo and google home should NOT be treated as a "hub", or grouped in the same category as smartthings and wink (or iris). These are additional input devices (not a platform in itself), which can connect to one or more platforms and sometimes bridge gaps in connectivity, but they are not "hubs". To say that the majority of devices can't work together and you need a separate app for most devices is complete nonsense, and then he completely dismisses smartthings (arguably the most popular true smarthome "platform" today) as a viable option because it's too "difficult" to setup... It is entirely possible to setup a smart home where everything works together, you just have to put some thought into what you buy. You can't just go buy anything and everything because it is labeled as a "smart home device" and expect it all to work together seamlessly. The writer also seems to advocate the idea of using wifi to connect all your home automation devices... which is also something I disagree with... having everything connect directly to the internet via wifi is just asking for integration problems. I agree... my system is pretty much rock solid now, and with the introduction of pro monitoring, the monthly fee is actually a really good value. Once they get local processing working, I think it's going to be hard to deny iris as a viable competitor in the smart home market. If they could ever sort out out why some homes tend to be plagued with constant disconnection issues, fix the QC problem with some of the V2 devices (namely the smart button and keyfob) and integrate with more 3rd party services, I think they could go head-to-head with smartthings and probably come out on top. Still a little bit of work to do though...
  48. 1 like
    Well I gave up on the Alertme fob and bought a second gen iris keyfob. DOA out of the box...I even made sure the box looked clean before purchasing. I guess the QC is pretty crappy on these things.
  49. 1 like
    Then it is time to purchase two GDO's from Lowe's! IRIS, please get the message: when you fix, we buy.
  50. 1 like
    I am talking about traditional hardwired smoke and CO detectors. They all alarm the Halo's and all Halo's alarm them. First Alert Z wave smoke and CO detectors do not alarm any other device other than themselves and Iris, and are separate from the conversation. The goal here is to make your existing hardwired detectors alert Iris through the Halo's, this is not yet working. Although the Halo's themselves are alerted by the interconnected traditional smoke and CO detectors and do alarm, Halo does not yet alert Iris when the alarm is initiated by an interconnected device. If a Halo initiates the alarm they do alert Iris.