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Showing most liked content since 06/21/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 likes
    I'd like to see them revive the production of the V1 sensors and smart buttons. The quality is just so much better on the V1 devices.
  2. 2 likes
    When is Lowe’s hiring you to get their portal up to snuff with yours.
  3. 2 likes
    Happiness... I received my valve and it was exactly what I ordered. It makes me wish I had ordered more.
  4. 2 likes
    For those of you that are using Blue Iris for a 3rd party camera interface the latest version ( now provides Alexa integration. I copied the following from the help section: Amazon Echo Most Amazon Echo home automation integration requires a solution provider to establish a dedicated central web server. However, the Blue Iris model has always been private, local control without a central-server requirement--your video and system control commands never pass through a third-party server and no Internet connection is required. Therefore in order to get Amazon Echo to talk to your Blue Iris PC directly, we have had to implement this functionality via device emulation--there are a few home automation devices with which Echo can communicate directly, such as the Philips Hue lighting systems and WeMo devices, and Blue Iris will appear to Echo as one of these. To get started, you should have your Echo and your Blue Iris PC on the same LAN. If you have multiple subnets (routers), the Echo and your PC should be configured in such a way that they are visible to each other on the network. In addition to basic control of the traffic signal icon and profile#, you may choose to add individual camera control as well--please see the Amazon Echo setting on each camera's properties pages. Next, use the Connect to Amazon Echo button on Options/Mobile devices. This will make your PC discoverable by the Echo device via UPNP technology. You will be notified once the Echo is able to successfully connect. If you add or remove any camera from Echo control, or if your PC's LAN address changes, you should re-run this discovery step in order to find any newly added cameras. To fully remove a camera from Echo control you may need to use the Alexa app on your Smartphone. In addition, to fully remove Echo access to your Blue Iris, you should delete the user entry that's created on Options/Mobile devices. Once discovery is successful, you're ready to issue commands to your Echo such as: "Alexa, turn Blue Iris On" to set the traffic signal icon to yellow/green "Alexa, turn Blue Iris Off" to set the traffic signal icon to red "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 10%" to set profile 1 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 50%" to set profile 5 "Alexa, set Blue Iris to 100%" to resume the normal schedule For individual camera control (if configured on camera properties page prior to discovery), you can issue commands such as: "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 On" to enable, pause, record, or select the camera (as configured) "Alexa, turn My Camera 1 Off" to disable, un-pause, stop recording, or de-select the camera "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 10%" to move to PTZ preset 1 "Alexa, set My Camera 1 to 50%" to move to PTZ preset 5 Sure in a perfect world, we would not use percentages to control presets and profiles, this is a side-effect of the light-bulb device emulation. If Amazon opens the ASK API (Amazon Skill Kit Application Programming Interface) to further direct device control manufacturers, or if Blue Iris builds-out a full user portal website, this may change. You may also see additional HA integration, such as Hue and WeMo control directly through Blue Iris.
  5. 1 like
    Under the hood I bet the Echo Show is nothing more than a kindle with a speaker and power supply built into the unit for thrice the price.
  6. 1 like
    There is no way to change this within the app. It's a bit confusing, but the app highlights the available action. In the screenshot below the TP LINK EXTENDER and TV are both on while the other four devices are off. The device icon is always highlighted when the device is on.
  7. 1 like
    Mine is a beagle-Jack Russel mix. He is also a very sweet dog, but can be pretty high strung at times! I just got a bosh sensor and it is a great product. Makes me want to replace all my existing motion detectors with these! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 1 like
  9. 1 like
    Update 1.2.4 -Added Event Log page under Troubleshooting -Added SHANE to system status. -Cleaned up the code some.
  10. 1 like
    I don't know if anyone else has noticed this, but the basic halo smoke detector is about $30 cheaper at HD than Lowes. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-Smart-Smoke-and-CO-Alarm-HSR761H/301891654 The one that does weather alerts also is about $15 less.
  11. 1 like
    There was an outage with Amazon web services. I got an email from SmartThings about it, last night. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 1 like
    I have had somewhat of a similar experience (aside from my rate of system expansion). I'd say I'd give it a B+ or A-. I started with security and a thermostat (I think it was called the "smart kit"), but have went crazy adding new devices. I held out for the V2 changeover also, and it was mostly a flawless transition other than some issues with my thermostat. Eventually I got tired of fooling with the t-stat and switched over to nest. Fast forward 2 years from my initial install and I have 71 paired devices including all my light switches and fan speed controls, lamps, led under cabinet lights, contact sensors for all exterior doors and windows, motion detectors in every room, cameras, door locks, smoke detectors, sirens, a leak detector, hose timer, 40G water heater, etc... I also have a contact sensor in the mailbox as well as one protecting a gun safe. I also have the 4G cellular modem with the pro monitoring package. We use echo dots from one end of the house to the other, and also have an echo dash wand with alexa which can be used as sort of a handheld voice remote (can also be done with our fire tv remote). We use the harmony hub with alexa to control our entertainment system, and I have even rigged up a remote/emergency release for our dog's kennel. I say all that to say I am constantly adding devices, and rarely have I had any issues. In fact, the thermostat issues I had seem like they have been resolved because I gave my thermostat to my parrents to use on their iris system and they have had no problems with it.
  13. 1 like
    I seem to be in the minority. I give my system a solid to high B. I was originally looking to get a system for simple security, thinking it would relieve some of my son's anxiety at night. I started with a Vera Edge and bought Iris V1 contact sensors thinking they would work. Once I learned they did not, I realized it would be cheaper to go full Iris instead of keeping the Edge and buying more expensive sensors to cover my needs. I actually caught one of the security package deals at the right time and I think paid $50 or $100 for the package. I had a workable home security system in no time. I was not worried about other capabilities, although I was certainly interested. I was also not a premium member because I did not want to pay the monthly fee. The system has served me well with minimal issues. I waited to migrate to hub V2 until after the migration tool, or whatever it was called, was available. and the migration was successful and pain free. I believe I have only replaced batteries in one sensor plus the keypad since the original install. I have since added three smart plugs, a few Cree bulbs and two Z-Wave GE toggle switches. I don't really think I need any more switches or lights automated, so I am probably set there. The schedules I have set for these work near flawlessly with only an occasional issue. Mostly with one of the Z-Wave switches losing connection. I also have an Echo Dot that integrates as advertised with Iris, which I mostly used during Christmas time to turn the Christmas tree lights on and off as needed. Otherwise, the schedules I use take care of the job. I have taken advantage of the basic plan expansion to include rules and scenes and have a number of them active and working as expected. I sometimes need to adjust when I don't have them setup correctly at first, but it is normally my setup issue. I currently have 32 devices and am very pleased with my level of investment and how the system performs. I wouldn't mind adding a few more things like a thermostat, smoke & CO detectors, water shut-off and some other items but I am in no rush, not because of Iris, but they are nice-to-haves in my opinion. Perhaps my experience is due to the somewhat simple setup and my gradual build up from the security foundation, however it has met my needs. I would feel comfortable purchasing something on the "wish list" when ready with full expectations that the addition would work as expected, based on my experiences to date.
  14. 1 like
    I just figured I would update this thread in case someone searches it out later...the signal strength did come back up to 97% but it took almost a week to do so. Not sure why but give it time and you should see the increase as thegillion mentioned.
  15. 1 like
    Agreed. I got my two in also and wish I would have took advantage more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 like
    I wish you ordered more also... ;(
  17. 1 like
    Now you're just over analyzing everything. [emoji848]
  18. 1 like
    Thank you -- that's nice to have off the "Problem" list on the Home
  19. 1 like
    I've had my IRIS GDO controller installed for 2.5 weeks now. Twice I've received a notification that the door is opening when it is not (I have a separate NYCE tilt sensor as back-up, so I can tell it isn't actually opening). Although I received a notification from the GDO that is open, it does not show in the history. The device page does show the status as "opening" for several minutes. Then I get a notification that the door is closed, and that DOES show up in the history. I seem to recall someone posting that this is a known issue that IRIS is aware of and working to fix, but I can't find that post. Is this a common occurrence for others, and is IRIS working on it?
  20. 1 like
    You would be money ahead to just use an Iris smart plug. Then you would get the benefit of repeating both Z-wave and zigbee.