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Vettester last won the day on April 30

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About Vettester

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    Iris Geek

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    : Was on Jupiter, but now just Lost in Space!

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  1. Z-Wave devices operate on 915 MHz so your wifi router is not going to cause interference with your switches. If you don't have anything running on 900 MHz in your house the only other thing I can thing of that may reduce your Z-Wave signal strength is metal. Are the electrical boxes you are installing the switches in metal or plastic?
  2. I find it interesting how some people have issues with these while others do not. I have over 20 of these and have never had any problems whatsoever.
  3. You can determine the device's protocol on @thegillion's web portal. Like scunny mentioned, the Zigbee switches are more stable and will not have an impact on your Z-Wave network. However, keep in mind that they do not act as a Z-Wave repeater so they will not help strengthen your Z-Wave network.
  4. And not so much in the West: Professional Monitoring is not currently offered at this address.
  5. Awesome, thanks for posting this!
  6. The GE Link bulbs have always been problematic on V2, but they seem to be more stable now than they ever have on the new platform. I am using 6 of these and I rarely have any connection issues. If a bulb disconnects, you should be able to turn the light off and on once and then put your hub in pairing mode. The hub should triple beep and the light will flash three times. At this point just back out of the pairing mode and the connection to the bulb should be reestablished. If this doesn't work you may have to factory reset your bulb. To do this first force remove the bulb from the Iris app and then turn the power on and off to the light 6 or 7 times. The bulb should dim slightly and then return to full power indicating the factory reset was successful. You should now be able to re-pair the bulb to your hub. As for the lock, distance makes a huge difference in successful pairing. How far away is your lock from the hub when you are trying to pair it?
  7. Over the weekend I had a lock that the Iris app was reporting as offline, but the battery level was being reported as OK. The portal status page did not show anything on the lock, but it is working with other devices. I knew the battery level was getting low because the lock was acting sluggish. Obviously I don't find buttons and Gen 2 key fobs very useful.
  8. It's just you... put new batteries in the lock and you'll be good to go.
  9. I use some care rules, but I haven't received any emails regarding care activities yet. It looks like it may be time to trade your Echo in for the new Echo Silver.
  10. Local viewing is available or you wouldn't be able to use the Iris cameras with a 3rd party software. Enough said....
  11. Thanks, maybe I'll keep the old rule just case I ever decide to change my service level back. However, with the video capabilities I have become accustom to with Blue Iris, I doubt I'll ever go back to using Iris for video surveillance.
  12. I still have my old existing camera rule and even though it states "any" on the rule definition, if you go into the properties it has been changed to "smoke or CO alarm".
  13. So out of curiosity does the original rule still work when any alarm is triggered?
  14. I downgraded to the basic plan so I don't have access to the camera rules anymore, but I'm pretty sure there was one under Cameras & Sensors named "What happened during an alarm?"
  15. Mine stopped reporting who when I downgraded from premium to the basic service.