G35Rider

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Everything posted by G35Rider

  1. Smitho, I'd try to get that FW updated. Between two homes with their wired versions for alarm panels, and the older Zigbee ones I currently use for Iris ( ISW-ZPR1-WP13 ), Bosch sensors have been super-dependable for me. I can't comment on their pet-immune performance but in general I've not had a single false alarm from them. One of mine is even pointed toward stainless-steel appliances, and an exterior window, a location where my old V1 Iris sensors were having issues with false-trips. As usual, proper installation applies - 7.5' off ground, away from false-trip sources. On another note, until I stumbled onto this thread, I didn't even know Bosch had released these newer models. I'm also having trouble finding these on the Lowes website. Are you guys finding these in your local Lowes stores?
  2. Notification of lost connection

    Read this post today and tried it. Well - indeed it does log it now! I removed my Ethernet cable from the hub at approx. 7:59pm PDT. At about 8:30pm I get a app. notification and an e-mail that the hub has gone offline. Checked app, and History does show a entry for lost connection. I reconnected the Ethernet cable and once I get the solid green LED, I immediately get another app. notification + e-mail that the hub has reconnected. And History properly reflects this as well. I tried it again at 8:40pm and got a notification at 9:11pm. So it looks like you'll need to have a hub that's been offline for about 30 minutes before Iris will send you notifications about it. To me that's perfectly acceptable and this behavior is the way I'd expect it to work. Fantastic!
  3. Iris web portal V1.3.0

    Mine has been working as expected for a while now. My problems occurred when scheduling odd intervals, like "water every 3 days" on V2. May not be a one-size-fits-all solution but sometimes when schedules on this timer gets screwed up, I've found it effective to force the hub to push a new watering schedule to the timer. I usually water using the "Weekly" mode. I switch it to interval mode, wait for the push to occur in the "History", then switch it back to "Weekly", and then see that represented in the History. I didn't have to unpair the device in this case.
  4. Motion Bypass

    "On" is like the "Away" feature on traditional alarm systems. "Partial" is like the "Stay" feature. "On & Partial" is use a sensor for both modes. In your application - per what thegillion posted above, set your upstairs motion detectors to "On" (not participating when alarm set to Partial). Your downstairs sensors need to be set to "On & Partial". When you sleep at night use "Partial" mode and use "On" when you leave the house.
  5. Maintenance notice from Iris

    ..as well as the Alarm functions. Sweet.
  6. False Fire/Smoke Alarms

    sparc, I don't have a good answer for you on this one. However, I recently had a single smoke detector false on me as well. This detector is in the middle of my second floor hallway, and on the night of July 4th and through the 5th, it would go off every few hours. I live less than half mile from the site of a firework launching site so I attributed the false alarms to the particulates in the air. I do leave the bedroom windows open on the evenings so no doubt some of the particulates could have come in, but I'm not sure why the actual bedroom smoke detectors didn't go off, but instead, just the hallway one. I removed the detector from the hallway (checked the batteries too) and with the batteries intact, just left the detector sitting in the dining room table and hasn't falsed since. I'm going to mount the detector back in the hallway later today - crossing my fingers it doesn't false. In your case, I'd try to determine if it's specific to the detector or the current location of that detector.
  7. My iris grade is...

    C - At the risk of sounding like a broken record - still no offline processing though we were told that it is "in the works". For a system that has made strides to improve its security aspects (with professional monitoring (!!!) ), no offline processing for the alarm portion is just plain stupid, stupid, stupid... If it truly is in the works, the release of this functionality is horrifically overdue by any metrics of any software industry. Feels like it's only being worked on a single dev's spare time if at all at this point. - Closed system - why does this system have to remain closed? On one hand it supports all of IRIS's own proprietary products (ie. Alertme's V1 products) which in itself is a good justification for being a closed system, but the system also allows for certain 3rd party sensors to be part of the system though not IRIS-certified.... Why not just open the API for 3rd party devices - even if it's only for non-security items? - Overall, my systems' stability is pretty good. I don't get random sensor dropoffs, rules work as they should, though, from time to time a rule (or a schedule) doesn't fire off as it should. It's rare enough I don't mind too much. - Alexa integration is always a plus.
  8. IRIS Compatible Heat Detector?

    As far as I know, outside of standard alarm/fire industry sensors, there are no heat / rate-of-rise heat sensors (yet) in the Zwave/Zigbee realm. I could be dead wrong but I haven't seen one yet. Personally I wouldn't leave battery-powered active anything in the attic as it can get hotter than 140F. For that application, I use two System Sensor 190F + Rate-of-Rise sensors connected to a DSC alarm panel.
  9. Potential false alarm remedy

    Because of the high rate of false alarms due to motion sensing devices, most modern alarm panel software (by the way, modern in the alarm industry is the last 20 years) now include a false-alarm reduction feature called Cross Zoning, where two motion zones are required to trigger an alarm. If a motion on one zone trips, the panel will wait for a period for a second motion zone to trip before declaring an alarm. The motion detector zones and the time required to trip both zones are all user-configurable. Of course, the other route is to use better motion detectors more appropriate for the application. I'm glad IRIS has gone with the professional monitoring route as that motivated them to finally improve on their implementation of an alarm system. 2 zones no longer mean ANY two zones. No more do the burglars have to open and crawl through a window/door AND trip a motion detector to finally trigger the alarm system if you have multi-zone setup. It's now two motion sensing sensors with an appropriate time delay (5 minutes, I think?) not unlike Cross Zoning. Also happy there are high-end 3rd party motion sensors that can be used in the IRIS ecosystem to avoid the need for multi-zone alarming in the first place (Bosch, which I use, and reportedly a GE model on these forums), not just the standard IRIS stuff. Yay progress!
  10. 12 zone orbit controller

    Are you referring to the web portal? The "Lawn & Garden" on the web portal isn't working yet. Does it work on your phone through the IRIS app.?
  11. Need solution for forgetting items when leaving

    My workplace requires badges (mine's on a lanyard) and I have on several occasions forget to bring it to work. Usually I'll leave it in the car at the end of the day but when I take it into the house, that's when I get into trouble. If it makes it into the house, my solution is to not only leave it next to my car keys (since I can still forget and just grab the keys and go) but also to intentionally tangle the lanyard with the keys. That way I can't just grab one and not have the other... If your laptop lives in a laptop bag/case, you can install a clip somewhere on the case to hold your key's keychain... Make it a habit to attach your keys to the case when you're home and you have work the next day. FInd your keys, bring the whole laptop. Just an overly simple example.... Bottom line is to analyze your daily routine and see if you can associate your car keys with the laptop at any step.
  12. Most robust way to automate alarm

    I'm assuming you've already tried the manual reset procedure?
  13. Most robust way to automate alarm

    If you're searching on EBay, be sure to also search for "Alertme keyfob" as well. In fact, it turned up one today: Alertme keyfob search, EBay Hope you don't mind the orange sides as opposed to the black sides on IRIS-branded units.
  14. Did Ivee Go Out of Business?

    Thanks for the clarification, Smitho. I actually didn't know that was the case but judging by previous comments from other owners of IVee I suspected that may have been the case.
  15. New Iris Pro Monitoring Email

    Probably because of the nature of the emergency - panic vs. alarm tripped: Emergency Dispatch – Smoke & Security In the event of a true emergency, confirming the alarm in the app will expedite emergency dispatch. If the alarm is not confirmed through the app, the monitoring station will call the account owner and also the 2nd person in the notification list. If those 2 people are unable to confirm or cancel, the Monitoring Station will attempt to dispatch the authorities. Once verbally confirmed, emergency personnel will be asked to dispatch. In the event that no one can be reached by phone, an emergency responder dispatch will be attempted. Emergency Dispatch - Panic A Panic alarm in your home will result in emergency personnel automatically being alerted. Once authorities are notified, the Monitoring Station will then call your Notification List until someone is reached to inform them that the authorities have been notified. Got those from here: What To Expect With Iris Professional Monitoring
  16. Did Ivee Go Out of Business?

    Sheesh, I think this one of very, very few times where you've expressed an opinion this strongly - product must've been pretty gawd awful. I'm glad I didn't jump on the sale a while back where they were selling Ivees for $60. It was awesome that they came out with a voice-activated assistant that actually integrated with IRIS first. But it's too bad the rest of the market caught on (FAST) and pretty much just executed the model better.
  17. Glass breaks on sale

    Thanks for the heads up! I've been wanting to get a few more. I've got 3 mounted around downstairs and thus far have been pretty good. I don't have powerful sneezes, nor a big dog that barks but I do have a home theater and so far have not set it off unexpectedly. Only time was collecting empty glass bottles from a shelf, and another breaking a ceramic bowl did I inadvertently set one off. Unit detects up to 12ft. from the window you want protected. That means mount it on the ceiling where the microphone to the farthest end/edge of the window is less than 12ft. In theory, and if you have the resources, you can put one in each downstairs room where there are windows or any windowed-room that can be easily accessible by someone outside. If you have multi-windows in a room, mount it in the middle between/among all the windows while keeping in mind the window's farthest-edge range rule. As for window size, it's actually stated in the install manual (though not easy to see unless you're really looking for it). From the manual: Glass to be monitored for breakage must be at least 11 in. x 11 in. (28 cm x 28 cm) square. Glass must be framed, in a wall of the room or mounted in a barrier of 36 in. (91 cm) minimum width. Glass Thickness: 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) to 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) So it's generally about the industry-standard for glass break detectors of about 1ft. by 1ft. minimum glass size. The installation manual is on the product's "Guide & Documents" section here: Utilitech Indoor Door and Window Sensor
  18. Got it for a good deal. Apparently these are older generation units, but they are plug-in Z-Wave dimmers and supposedly measures wattage. I was hoping it would be paired as a dimmer or on-off switch with no ability to show wattage, but upon pairing with V2, shows up as an unsupported device....not even a binary switch. Oh well.
  19. Jasco 45652WB no worky with V2

    It shows as a ZWAVE device, but both model and vendor are "UNKNOWN".
  20. V1 lamp module

    I don't have anything terribly meaningful to contribute to this one but among my V1 Smart Plug, and GE/Jasco Z-wave lamp modules, I haven't had issues with any of them. On/Off and schedules are firing off normally. This is with V.2.0.1.13 and latest Android app.
  21. Halo's are now available

    The module/component used to detect CO is recommended to last only up to 10 years. The smoke section generally just needs cleaning, but does eventually get gunked up by dust and dirt...which results in the degradation of sensitivity of the photoelectric sensor.
  22. Got a great deal

    That's friggin' awesome. Just curious, though, how's the IRIS booth at your store? Looking great? Awful?
  23. Why the V1 contact sensor is better!

    They can also be stuck/failed closed for devices that are in that state for a very long time, like a sensor on a window that rarely gets opened. When I refreshed an alarm system at my house, a couple of recessed windows sensors based on reed contact switches were stuck closed for windows I hardly remember ever opening. A couple of hard taps actually freed the reed switch and appeared to function normally afterwards, but I figured they just need to be replaced since you never know about their reliability and they're dirt cheap.
  24. Why the V1 contact sensor is better!

    Cool video. Huh...all this time, didn't know there was a rubber seal around the V1 contact sensors....
  25. Official Iris Community Launch

    Pretty sure they do: Main page "IRIS" -> Bug Reports