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Everything posted by G35Rider

  1. Sheesh, I think this one of very, very few times where you've expressed an opinion this strongly - product must've been pretty gawd awful. I'm glad I didn't jump on the sale a while back where they were selling Ivees for $60. It was awesome that they came out with a voice-activated assistant that actually integrated with IRIS first. But it's too bad the rest of the market caught on (FAST) and pretty much just executed the model better.
  2. Thanks for the heads up! I've been wanting to get a few more. I've got 3 mounted around downstairs and thus far have been pretty good. I don't have powerful sneezes, nor a big dog that barks but I do have a home theater and so far have not set it off unexpectedly. Only time was collecting empty glass bottles from a shelf, and another breaking a ceramic bowl did I inadvertently set one off. Unit detects up to 12ft. from the window you want protected. That means mount it on the ceiling where the microphone to the farthest end/edge of the window is less than 12ft. In theory, and if you have the resources, you can put one in each downstairs room where there are windows or any windowed-room that can be easily accessible by someone outside. If you have multi-windows in a room, mount it in the middle between/among all the windows while keeping in mind the window's farthest-edge range rule. As for window size, it's actually stated in the install manual (though not easy to see unless you're really looking for it). From the manual: Glass to be monitored for breakage must be at least 11 in. x 11 in. (28 cm x 28 cm) square. Glass must be framed, in a wall of the room or mounted in a barrier of 36 in. (91 cm) minimum width. Glass Thickness: 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) to 1/4 in. (6.4 mm) So it's generally about the industry-standard for glass break detectors of about 1ft. by 1ft. minimum glass size. The installation manual is on the product's "Guide & Documents" section here: Utilitech Indoor Door and Window Sensor
  3. It shows as a ZWAVE device, but both model and vendor are "UNKNOWN".
  4. Got it for a good deal. Apparently these are older generation units, but they are plug-in Z-Wave dimmers and supposedly measures wattage. I was hoping it would be paired as a dimmer or on-off switch with no ability to show wattage, but upon pairing with V2, shows up as an unsupported device....not even a binary switch. Oh well.
  5. I don't have anything terribly meaningful to contribute to this one but among my V1 Smart Plug, and GE/Jasco Z-wave lamp modules, I haven't had issues with any of them. On/Off and schedules are firing off normally. This is with V. and latest Android app.
  6. The module/component used to detect CO is recommended to last only up to 10 years. The smoke section generally just needs cleaning, but does eventually get gunked up by dust and dirt...which results in the degradation of sensitivity of the photoelectric sensor.
  7. That's friggin' awesome. Just curious, though, how's the IRIS booth at your store? Looking great? Awful?
  8. They can also be stuck/failed closed for devices that are in that state for a very long time, like a sensor on a window that rarely gets opened. When I refreshed an alarm system at my house, a couple of recessed windows sensors based on reed contact switches were stuck closed for windows I hardly remember ever opening. A couple of hard taps actually freed the reed switch and appeared to function normally afterwards, but I figured they just need to be replaced since you never know about their reliability and they're dirt cheap.
  9. Cool video. Huh...all this time, didn't know there was a rubber seal around the V1 contact sensors....
  10. Pretty sure they do: Main page "IRIS" -> Bug Reports
  11. Recently, I've come across more embedded processor software development efforts that actually use full-blown versions of Linux instead of their stripped-down embedded-purpose cousins. No doubt simply because modern embedded processors are much faster and includes more RAM and FLASH and the need to strip down the OS becomes less of a priority. Of course, it all depends on the application. And I'd be shocked if the IRIS software running atop the V2 hubs eats up close to 1GB alone, with or without local processing....
  12. I remember the IRIS V1 actually had the timestamp (date and time, actually) embedded in the top (or was it bottom) of the video. Wish they left that in, as the current timestamp on the bottom of the image is worthless since it doesn't necessarily reflect the actual time the image was taken.
  13. For me, my original schedules are firing off again on their prescribed times. However when I go to the schedules tab, it doesn't list any of my switches to add/modify schedules (it's blank).
  14. Try a couple of things: Exit out of your app completely. Reset the hub Then restart your app.
  15. For me Alexa couldn't manipulate any of the devices, even though I haven't changed/added/removed any of them. Upon opening the Alexa app., all my devices were "offline". I just selected "Forget all devices" followed by a rediscover new devices and things seem to work again. Note it does screw up your existing groups though.
  16. Mine are all back as well. My Echo Dot II is still not able to control anything though...I'll try to make it un-learn and re-learn the IRIS skill... P.S. - Appreciate the notice sent out via e-mail about the system issues as well as the 'Platform Status Update' page....
  17. You would think the alarm industry would follow some standard for wireless communications, but noooope. Honeywell, DSC, GE/Interlogix...etc. all have their own communication protocols and RF frequencies for their wireless products. Each brand sells their own line of wireless sensors and are not compatible to each other. There are third-party wireless 'translators' that translate from one brand's protocol to another, however. As for IRIS and your existing wireless alarm sensors - you are unfortunately out of luck. Your Simon wireless products doesn't speak Z-Wave/Zigbee, which only your control panel understands. If you have hard-wired sensors, you may have some options for hacking IRIS sensors..........
  18. Which is why you should always make sure your backup batteries (AAs) are good. You're only completely hosed if you lose wall power and the backup power.
  19. Cool - glad it worked out!
  20. How deep was it in the water? You may want to have it submerged in the food saver bag but only leave it at shallow depths. Low power ZigBee RF at these frequencies (2.4Ghz) may have issues with transmission from underwater to air. Water and quite possibly your tub may attenuate signals enough to cause it to disconnect.
  21. Might be garage door opened by non-IRIS means (factory button press, factory remote control, etc.).
  22. Thanks for the preview - web UI looking fantastic!!
  23. Awesome!! More than anything, I'd be happy if you brought back the "IRIS Status" card. I wonder what kinds of awesome stuff you and thegillion can put together if just the two of you collaborated on things.
  24. I'm using Firefox and have no problem logging in.