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  1. "That IS a bit of a splurge, but appears to be just what you needed. Thanks for the review." As long as it stays connected, it's exactly what I need. I'm in upstate NY and have a solar heater connected to the pump. On a sunny 80 deg day it will increase the pool temp by 5 deg in a single day. If it rains and is chilly, it will decrease the pool temp by 5 deg or more in a day. As I'm a wimp, I like to be able to remotely control the pump from anyplace to override the schedule and keep the pool as warm as possible. "I want one of these but my pump is about 80 feet away and worried the signal won't be reliable enough. Can you confirm if this is at all like the bluetooth units that keep scheduling and timer locally?" This is simply a 40 amp relay in a box with a zwave enabled switch. There is no local scheduling. However, you don't have to mount it at the pool pump. I only did so because it was convenient and I could replace the existing box with this one in about 10 minutes. If I have trouble keeping it connected, I'm going to put a junction box there and connect the wires, then mount this box in the garage next to the breaker panel. If you have easy access at the other end of the circuit that runs the pool pump, that may be a better location for your installation. -Jim C
  2. After about two years, the GE zwave light switch that was running my 1 HP 120 V pool pump stopped working. It was disconnected more than it was connected, where it used to be rock solid. I splurged on the GE 12726 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and installed it yesterday. It was simple to install and paired up faster than any other zwave device I have. It did so about 50 ft from the hub, where line of sight takes the signal through an exterior wall, two walls of a garage, then through an 18' diameter above ground pool. There is a GDO in between this device and the hub. The front of the box has a couple of LED's showing status and a rubber covered button to turn on/off the load without having to open the cover. Granted, it's been paired for less than 24 hours, but so far, so good. I'll update this thread after a few weeks, or sooner if I start to have problems with it. -Jim C A few notes for those who may be interested: The Iris app, Iris+, and thegillion's portal show it as a switch, though Iris shows 'uncertified device' at the bottom of the Iris device page. On/Off controls function perfectly in all three. Scheduling and rules work perfectly. The Iris app and thegillion's portal both show energy usage which appears to be accurate (about 680 watts for the 1 HP motor). Iris+ doesn't show the device under Energy Usage. Both Iris+ and thegillion's portal show it as having 0% battery, but it does not use a battery. On thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, the device exists under Battery Level (0%), but not Signal Level (EDIT: I just realized that zwave devices are not listed under Signal) The model number is not listed under the device on the Iris app, but is listed correctly in Iris+ and on thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, All Devices.
  3. I don't think I've received a notification for a power outage/restore since going to v2. A couple of weeks ago a storm came through and we lost power for almost 24 hours. I removed the batteries so not to have them go dead since nothing worked anyway. (If only we had local processing...) In my area no power = no Internet access. At about hour 18 of the outage, I received a notification that one of my previously disconnected zwave switches had reconnected. I thought was odd I would be notified of that. I wasn't home and tried to get to the hub but it said the hub was not able to be reached. I called my wife at home and confirmed that power never came back on. If my story is typical, I would just connect power to the UPS and call it a day.
  4. My shop has hanging sliding doors on the front. For a while, to monitor the doors, I used a v1 door sensor, with the smart half on a spring loaded hinge to keep it close to the magnet on the opposite door when closed. It wasn't that reliable and would set the alarm off almost every time we had a storm with heavy wind. About a year or so ago, I mounted one of these limit switches and soldered it into the v1 sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050GLF4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can adjust the length and angle of the arm. It will rotate both CW and CCW, but is spring loaded to return to the position you set it to. It has NC and NO connections and works flawlessly for me. I have it mounted so the roller on the arm makes contact with the door when the door is about 2" from closed. This way any storms have to move the door about that far for the sensor to see it as 'open'. It's hard to tell size from the photo, but the arm is about 3" long. Hopefully this will help you with your odd projects. As it can be wired for NC or NO, you could also use it to alarm when something closes. -Jim C
  5. Thanks for the clarification, Otto Mation. I installed the Halo over the weekend and see exactly what you described here. It paired before I could scroll down to the manufacturer on the pairing page. I wish everything paired so well. -Jim C
  6. Here's the line from the user guide: "Note: Halo is only approved to interconnect with other Halo products. It is NOT approved to interconnect with any smoke alarms that are not Halo products. If only one Halo is installed in a home, the Halo will only go off when there is an emergency inside the room in which it is installed." It's on the bottom of PDF page 12 (manual page 8) on the user guide available here: https://halosmartlabs.com/pages/user-manuals
  7. I purchased a Halo yesterday and while browsing the manual, noticed that it says it should only be connected to other Halo detectors. Has anyone connected to other detectors and had issues (or not)? My other 3 are almost new Kidde smoke/co detectors. If it won't work reliably, I'll just return the Halo. Thanks, -Jim C
  8. I've had the alarm sounds off for several months, and have one door set to chime. It's been working properly most of that time on all three of my keypads. I know it didn't work when I first set it up, but never made the connection that the alarm sounds (arming and disarming) were off. It just started working properly one day. I assume it was a software update that fixed it, but the door with the chime doesn't get used that much, so I probably didn't notice. This was during the time when they were pushing out lots of updates, so it was difficult to keep track of everything that was changing.
  9. I'm concerned. That's why I only have cameras in non-living spaces (outside, garage, shop, etc). It's the same reason I have no connected locks. -Jim C
  10. We have 3 and generally don't have problems with them. We use one in the kitchen to arm and disarm the system a couple of times a day. The only times we may have problems is if we set off a smoke detector or don't disarm the alarm before it's triggered. If either happens, every once in a while it seems to ignore input to turn off the alarm. Connectivity-wise they have been solid. -Jim C
  11. We have an AXIS M5014 at work that we connect to directly via IP in a browser. It's part of our security plan to provide some protection for the receptionist who sits alone at the front office. We have a preset for the glass front door and another for the receptionist's desk (about 180 deg turn). It's amazingly fast to turn from one to the other. You can hear it in the quiet office environment if you're standing under it, but it's pretty quiet.
  12. It would be really sweet if you could set parameters like 'If contact sensor Front Door opens, tilt and pan to position 1', 'If contact sensor Back Door opens, tilt and pan to position 2'. This would be sweet in my shop where one properly placed camera could pan to two doors, but I currently need two cameras to cover them both. Jim C
  13. This is fantastic work! I think this shows the differences in the radios in each device. For instance, physically my hub is in the middle of some light switches and my GDO. However, switches located 8' from the hub in the same room as the hub are connecting to the GDO which is about 30' away. The signal has to pass right by the hub, then through two exterior walls to get from the switch to the GDO...
  14. Was it smoke or CO that triggered the alarm? We had a CO condition last winter when the flue in our basement wood furnace became plugged. The Iris/FA smoke/CO detector in the basement triggered for CO, but not smoke, even though the basement was pretty smoked up. The 2 non-Iris CO detectors on the 1st floor never triggered, even though the one with a read out had increasing numbers. The Iris smoke/CO on the 2nd floor went off while we were airing out the house. Every couple of months the Iris smoke/CO detector in my 2 car garage triggers for CO from my wife starting her car, idling for a few minutes, then leaving. The alarm is triggered about 30-45 minutes after she leaves. I think the First Alert detectors are more sensitive than most to CO. My first hand experience with the plugged flue leads me to this assumption. After having the CO alarm trigger shortly before going to bed, I'm good with a sensitive alarm... In your case, I wonder if it was detecting lingering CO from the cars.
  15. I had that problem and thought the battery was dead so I replaced it. It still didn't connect. When I removed and replaced the battery again, I broke the battery tab off. I think it was a bad connection because it was ready to let loose. You might be at the point where it's ready to break off. -Jim C