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Terk last won the day on March 23

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About Terk

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  1. I had that same message about a year ago or more but I couldn't stream as it disabled the buttons. I called support and had to mess around with taking out the modem, putting it back in going back on cellular by pulling the RJ45 waiting a minute and putting it back in, eventually the message went away and streaming was working so support said they would look into that if they could replicate the issue.
  2. I was guessing that was supposed to read as... "have been hosed by an update that considers the primary function of the device only, not the great forward thinking of users."
  3. In the app click the menu button (3 stacked lines) in the top left then Devices then scroll to the bottom to the Z-Wave Tools then choose "Rebuild Z-Wave Network"
  4. That is creative, I don't think it would have worked with the fan I was dealing with last night, it probably would in our room that shroud is much larger.
  5. One of my fans was hooked up to a single switch which turned on/off power to both the light and components, last night I got one of the fan modules installed, I removed the switch and just wire nutted the AC in and load wires together to feed the fan constant power and one of my remotes was made to replace a switch so it goes in the box even though it doesn't hook up to any wires. I paired the fan module to SmartThings and two remotes, the Z-Wave is week on these modules so I couldn't get it to pair the first time and had to move my ST hub to the center of my house, then turn of the circuit breaker for 30 seconds to get the fan module to go back into pairing mode. It doesn't help the signal strength that I left the antenna inside the metal hood with the electrical wiring but the cord is short and I couldn't find a good place to bring it out and keep it from being too visable, plus the fan was getting heavy after holding it up there to wire it and get the wires out of the way. I also had to load three DTHs for SmartThings to see it correctly, I did this ahead of time since I knew it wouldn't work without them. So far it is working great with the remotes, SmartThings, Alexa, and I'm guessing Google however I didn't try that last night.
  6. On a side note, you mentioned that your siren didn't stop when you canceled the alarm so you had to pull the batteries. I have had that same thing happen once or twice when I forgot the alarm was on and opened a door, it would be bad if it happened when I wasn't home since I would have no way to turn it off. I tried to plug my siren in instead of using batteries so I could put a smart plug on it however it wouldn't run off the power jack.
  7. Pressing the arm button once9s beeps to warn you something is open or there is motion, pressing it a second time tells the system to ignore the offending device(s) and arm. Once your gone and the motion sensor switches back to no motion the system should include the device back into the alarm triggering again.
  8. Thanks for letting us know how it went, I was on vacation for a while so I just ordered my 2 receivers today, I ordered one remote with the receivers and one wall switch from Home Depot that someone said would also work with it in the hopes that I can use both with one fan as I want two remotes on that one more than a smart device anyway, however I plan to connect them both to SmartThings since they won't work with Iris.
  9. I haven't purchased any recently, however if the new bulbs are the same model as you previously used, my guess would be that the firmware on the new bulbs is at a higher level (one that Iris doesn't support). I don't know if you have an option to roll back the firmware on those bulbs to the same version your other bulbs are, even if you had a gateway. The last time I hooked mine up to the OSRAM gateway to update the firmware (about 9 months ago) it corrected all of my issues with the bulbs so I haven't bothered to remove them from Iris, connect them to the OSRAM gatway, update them, remove them from the gateway, and connect them back to Iris since then. I would suggest trying the z-wave removal of one and trying it multiple times though as I got on of the GE hinge pin sensors a few months back and had to try connecting it around 15 times to get it to pair correctly as it kept showing up as an unknown device or unsupported device something like that, it still shows up as a Uncertified Device but works fine.
  10. It goes below 32, it just isn't supported, since it affects the batteries.
  11. Mine came with a cover over the bottom zone window which you can remove if you want it to detect in both. However I just have a cat so nowhere near 31lbs.
  12. For Z-Wave devices like the thermostats you can also try the Z-Wave removal tool at the bottom of the devices list.
  13. I'm most interested in how it works with SmartThings or Iris, Did you call to order or is there a website you can order from? Looking forward to hearing how it goes. Thanks.
  14. Lighting changes cause false alarms frequently on my third party camera which uses the camera to detect motion but a dedicated motion detector I believe should detect heat movement rather than optical movement which is likely why it happens so rarely, however I would imagine the sun shining on a wall could change the wall temp fast enough to cause a false alarm. In my shed I have on average 2 false alarms per summer using the motion detector on a v1 Iris camera and each time I can see a bug flying right by it in the recording.
  15. I use the Groupon app on my phone sometimes and show a waiter the code for them to write down, however a few times they have walked off with my unlocked phone to go type the code into their computer system rather than writing it down before I could stop them, so having security related apps require Touch ID each time you open it is usefull and it doesn't take any time or expose your password like typing in a pin, so I have no problem doing it each time. I have my work email, and my 3rd party camera app setup that way currently.