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Found 4 results

  1. Hello all, I have three WiFi Smart switches and they all lost connection back on April 9th at a little after 5:30 am Eastern Time. No matter what I do, I can not get them to re-connect/re-pair. I've called the help desk twice and, although the techs were trying their best, we couldn't get the switches back on the network. They simply failed to connect even though the first time I connected them (some six or so months ago) they connected with no issues. I've checked system logs and router logs and nothing unusual shows up for that date and time - or anywhere else for that matter. So it's unlikely a router issue. With that being said, I did notice that the Iris by Lowes app (v 2.1.1) updated on April 8th. Coincidence...? The best the tech could advise was to return the switches to Lowes and get new ones. I'd like to see if anyone has any suggestions first.
  2. Hi all, question about network traffic. I am considering setting up a VLAN to segment traffic on my network. I can assign all of my Iris addresses to one range, and run them through one port on the managed switch, except one device. the Wi-Fi Smart Switch that turns on my coffee pot every morning. The wireless network that the Smart Switch talks to would end up on a different VLAN and port. The literature for the Smart Switch says it can be controlled from anywhere. Under Iris control, is it talking to a Lowes server or is it talking to my hub? Andy
  3. Rules for Smart Switch only allow up to 1 hour settings after sunset or sunrise​. I use a smart switch to turn my landscape lights on at sunset. I would like to leave then on for 2 or three hours but only have the option for 60minutes. Am I missing something?
  4. I took advantage of a big sale and stocked up on Jasco switches/dimmers/fan controllers at lowes. I am getting them installed but I have a problem with one. My front porch light won't turn off when the switch is off. Pertinent details I have tried the binary on off switch and the new dimmer that requires a neutral. The power source is at the fixture, but I can rewire it to come from the switch if necessary. I tried using a CFL originally, which flickered at 60hz and switched to a dimmable LED which gets slightly dimmer when off. I have gotten answers ranging from the switch is bad to a neutral is crossed with a hot somewhere, but I can't find anyone at my local store who knows anything about integration or automation... Any thoughts?