Use Contact sensor with Existing home wiring System
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While several other locations  said it wasn't possible, I was able to pull out my ADT system and make my Iris work with my pre-wired sensors.

 

There are 7 zones in my home... and all of the wires per zone come into the old alarm panel.  I took each Contact sensor and soldered leads at the reed switch points.... made a small groove in the side of it and closed it up.  Added about 14" of wire to start.  The mounted all 7 sensors to a painted piece of 1x3.... and used a Ptouch to label each one.  Mounted this inside the old alarm box.  The iris hub is located 3 feet away and I have no interference issues.

 

Picked up a terminal strip and planned the terminals for sensors 1-7. and renamed name them per zone.

Tied each zone's bundle to each pair on the terminal strip.

 

Works perfectly.  I have the same zones as before...... and able to use the built in sensors all over my house.

 

 

Now if I could tie in my external sounder thats outside the house Im all set.

 

sparc and Otto Mation like this

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Now if I could tie in my external sounder thats outside the house Im all set.

 

Great job with the retrofit.

 

One quick and dirty way to wire up the external sounder is to make use of a smart plug:

- Smart plug

- UPS for the Smart Plug

- 12V DC Power supply capable of 2.0A.

 

With IRIS magic rules:

- Enable Smart Plug when alarm is tripped

- Disable Smart Plug after 10 minutes after trip.

 

There are other issues - like you disabling the tripped alarm but the Smart Plug will remain on for the duration of the 10 minutes sounding the external siren.  You'll have to turn off the smart plug manually.  The UPS is in case your power goes out and the alarm trips, you'll still have an external sounder.

 

Verify that your original alarm external sounder doesn't require a siren driver module.  Otherwise you'll have to feed the 12V to that.

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Would there be any chance of getting a photo of the solder work?

I have the same situation and am in the middle of trying to figure out the best retro fit as the little add-on contact sensors fall off even w/3m quick strips (kids like the sound of a slamming door).

 

I was looking into some other z wave dry contact switches but am not sure they'll pair with the IRIS hub yet.

Thanks,

-H

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"There are other issues - like you disabling the tripped alarm but the Smart Plug will remain on for the duration of the 10 minutes sounding the external siren.  You'll have to turn off the smart plug manually.  The UPS is in case your power goes out and the alarm trips, you'll still have an external sounder."

 

You can have the Smart Plug turn off when alarm mode changes, so it would stop the siren as soon as you turned off the alarm.

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You can have the Smart Plug turn off when alarm mode changes, so it would stop the siren as soon as you turned off the alarm.

 

 

Oh awesome - thanks for the info!  It's been a while since I used any of the magic rules (don't have 'em) or looked into them.

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Would there be any chance of getting a photo of the solder work?

I have the same situation and am in the middle of trying to figure out the best retro fit as the little add-on contact sensors fall off even w/3m quick strips (kids like the sound of a slamming door).

 

I was looking into some other z wave dry contact switches but am not sure they'll pair with the IRIS hub yet.

Thanks,

-H

Sure thing

Attached is a photo of one Sensor.  inside is a small black "Reed switch". I used some old wire from an ethernet cable and using a solder pencil, tacked on  a wire at each end.  Then melted a small dimple in the side to be able to close up the sensor,   I left 12" of wire on the sensor.  What I did next was open my old panel and after removing the old system I installed a simple terminal strip.  I have 7 "zones" in my home.  Each zone is specific (all entry doors..... upstairs windows..... kitchen windows.... etc). so I use 2 points side by side on the terminal strip..... each 2 points = 1 ZONE    Inside my old panel each " ZONE" was a group of wires where they were tied together to form a daisy chain when all contacts were closed.  Each " existing wire was a red/black.  For my " ENTRY DOORS" i had 3 wires... a Red/Black for each sensor.  The RED of the front door was attached to a zone point on a Terminal Strip......So then the " Black of the front door was tied to the RED of the garage door.... the BLACK of the garage door was tied to the RED of the back Door.... the BLACK of the back door was connected to the other Zone point on the terminal strip.   Then i opened an Iris sensor and attached 1 wire to each end of the "reed switch" - (see photo)   The Iris sensor is a Normally Closed (NC) system.   when the magnet moves away the reed switch " OPENS" triggering the alarm.  So now when all the doors are closed, it is the same as the magnet being beside the sensor.  IN my case I have my Iris Sensors all lined up side by side inside the old alarm box (and labelled).  No magnets so the sensor is technically " OPEN".... but the wiring keeps the circuit "CLOSED" - hence no alarm trigger.  Open any door and it " OPENS" the circuit.

 

The photos attached show a basic terminal strip so you get the idea.....  and the closeup of the sensor.

 

To be sure your system is NC, take the wires off 1 point and use a continuity meter....if you see continuity (or have a beep) then have someone open a window or door, the beep should stop.

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DaddyDecker and tread like this

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Yep I was planning to add a extra hard wired sensors to protect several windows.

One iris sensor could cover a wall of windows.   I was going to remove one end of the the reed switch and wire it in series so the switch could be used as one of the contacts. But the way your doing it would also work just that you could not use the switch as a contact.

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Yep I was planning to add a extra hard wired sensors to protect several windows.

One iris sensor could cover a wall of windows.   I was going to remove one end of the the reed switch and wire it in series so the switch could be used as one of the contacts. But the way your doing it would also work just that you could not use the switch as a contact.

All of my sensors are sitting INSIDE my old alarm panel - (which is right beside my Iris Hub) so I dont need it to be a contact sensor -- But I could resuse them later - just clip the wires.  Since my home is wired in zones, I have all of the front windows as 1 zone, the back windows ass 1 zone, front door and garage door as a zone, aAck door and sliding glass doors as a zone.  This way lets me keep the zones and wire my whole home using a small amount of sensors.

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Essentially, you could use one wireless door sensor and connect all the wired door sensors to that one wireless. Any door would trigger the alarm, but you wouldn't have the different zones. Very unique idea!

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Essentially, you could use one wireless door sensor and connect all the wired door sensors to that one wireless. Any door would trigger the alarm, but you wouldn't have the different zones. Very unique idea!

 

You could do that, but may actually want to avoid doing it because depending on how many windows and doors you have you could potentially have added too much resistance in the total wire loop for the contact sensor to behave normally (ie. stuck open).

 

The other issue is if a zone is opened, you'd have a hard time determining which window, or worse, which door was open.  In an alarm situation, I'd rather know which part of the house was broken into.

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Thanks Sjaffe for this great hack.  I was looking for a way to do this, but didn't know where to solder the leads.  Makes sense.  I have the same pre-wired setup I was hoping to tie in.  Amazing that Iris doesn't make a simple contact switch to do this as I'm sure there are lots of pre-wired houses out there.  Will be doing this today!

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I'm inspired to try this. My home, too is pre wired for ADT. On each contact sensor lead is a little resistor thing, are you guys leaving it on when wiring to Iris sensor or clipping it before wiring to Iris sensor?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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You're looking at the End-Of-Line resistor (EOLR) that the alarm panel supervises for zone loop issues.  If you plan on hacking into the sensor with your zone loops, you MUST snip that resistor off.

 

The original reed switch in the contact sensor is literally a small metal contact that has very little resistance, and the contact sensor is expecting as such.

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You're looking at the End-Of-Line resistor (EOLR) that the alarm panel supervises for zone loop issues. If you plan on hacking into the sensor with your zone loops, you MUST snip that resistor off.

The original reed switch in the contact sensor is literally a small metal contact that has very little resistance, and the contact sensor is expecting as such.

Thank you sir!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Does anyone make a sensor that could be tied to wired system.  I have some V1 contact sensors I could do this with, but if I use them I will need to buy more sensors to replace them.  I just wondered if anyone has made anything out of the box to do this?  Since V2 is supposed to be more in line with the standard protocols now, I thought maybe some one might have a pre-made unit for attaching to a wired zone.

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Does anyone make a sensor that could be tied to wired system.  I have some V1 contact sensors I could do this with, but if I use them I will need to buy more sensors to replace them.  I just wondered if anyone has made anything out of the box to do this?  Since V2 is supposed to be more in line with the standard protocols now, I thought maybe some one might have a pre-made unit for attaching to a wired zone.

 

You might look at the EcoLink Contact sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Security-Products-ECWST201-GE-Compatible/dp/B00A2X5GA4/ref=sr_1_1). It is supposed to work with Iris V2 and inside has a small terminal block with two connections to wire in to.

 

I found this link as well:

http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-security/z-wave-door-and-window-sensors/z-wave-door-amp-window-sensor-1

 

Here is a document from EcoLink that describes what can be connected (see pages 3 and 4)

http://www.discoverecolink.com/wp-content/uploads/Zwave-Questions-and-Answers-1.2.pdf

 

I have one, but I have not tried using the terminal block to see if an external switch can be used with it. If you are interested I could try testing it out.

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I just added my Ecolink Door/Window sensor to Iris V2 and it paired as "New Device" but the system knows it is a contact sensor and will let me assign it as a Door, Window, or Other.  I connected two wires to the terminal block and the sensor shows as Open normally, and Closed when I short the two wires together.

 

NOTE: It appears that you must have the cover on this device for it to operate.  It pairs with the system without the cover on, but will not report Open/Closed until the cover is installed (I think it has a tamper switch).

 

IMG 1066.JPG

jamesurquhart likes this

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Thanks, those are a bit pricey though.  No need to test but thanks for the info.  I kind of wanted to hold off using any more V1 stuff as from what I gather it's proprietary to IRIS.

 

Can this be done with the V2 sensors?

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I just added my Ecolink Door/Window sensor to Iris V2 and it paired as "New Device" but the system knows it is a contact sensor and will let me assign it as a Door, Window, or Other.  I connected two wires to the terminal block and the sensor shows as Open normally, and Closed when I short the two wires together.

 

NOTE: It appears that you must have the cover on this device for it to operate.  It pairs with the system without the cover on, but will not report Open/Closed until the cover is installed (I think it has a tamper switch).

 

Thanks again

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Thank you sir!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In my experience as a low voltage tech, I've noticed that ADT installers tend to be lazy and incorrectly place the EOLR at the panel or do other 'creative' work. :)

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Yeah, in my home they did that even when the panel could support the no-resistor NC configuration natively.

 

On the flip side, as an end-user I'm also glad installers don't install EOLRs at each window or door when recessed contacts are used.  I'm not about to pull out each contact to reinstall resistors when panels are changed especially when those sensors are flush mounted with the window or door frames.

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You might look at the EcoLink Contact sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Security-Products-ECWST201-GE-Compatible/dp/B00A2X5GA4/ref=sr_1_1). It is supposed to work with Iris V2 and inside has a small terminal block with two connections to wire in to.

 

I found this link as well:

http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-security/z-wave-door-and-window-sensors/z-wave-door-amp-window-sensor-1

 

Here is a document from EcoLink that describes what can be connected (see pages 3 and 4)

http://www.discoverecolink.com/wp-content/uploads/Zwave-Questions-and-Answers-1.2.pdf

 

I have one, but I have not tried using the terminal block to see if an external switch can be used with it. If you are interested I could try testing it out.

Enzo, the switch you linked to on Amazon says it operates at 319.5 MHz which I believe is the frequency used outside the USA. There is another version that operates at 908 MHz which is one of the frequencies used here in the USA. Did you actually use this 319 MHz switch in your system or do you have the 908 MHz version?

I'm interesting in using a couple of these to bring two perimeter zones from my old hard-wired system into Iris. In this way I can cover 10 ground accessible windows and all 6 doors in the house and garage with two contact switches. With multiple Iris motion sensors placed throughout the house to backup the door and windows switches and using the 2 out of 2 rule for alarm activation when AWAY, and use the door and window switches for perimeter protection with a single device trip to actuate the alarm when the system is set to PARTIAL.

Also, does anyone know if having multiple contact switches in close proximity to each other will cause interference between them. I would suspect it would if more than one were trying to communicate with the hub at the same time. You would get packet collisions in which case one or both transmissions to the hub might fail.

What is the closest spacing or distance that is acceptable?

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Also, does anyone know if having multiple contact switches in close proximity to each other will cause interference between them. I would suspect it would if more than one were trying to communicate with the hub at the same time. You would get packet collisions in which case one or both transmissions to the hub might fail.

What is the closest spacing or distance that is acceptable?

 

I don't think it matters. I use V1 contact sensors in my business and between uses which is sometimes several days they stay in a nylon tool bag and still report online, temp and battery level.

sparc likes this

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I recently added another 12 of these to my system and they were all paired and sitting together on the same table within a one foot area before I installed them and I didn't experience any issues.  Granted they weren't spaced together like that for an extended period of time but, like scunny mentioned, it shouldn't matter.

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