GE 12726 Zwave 40 Amp Appliance Controller
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After about two years, the GE zwave light switch that was running my 1 HP 120 V pool pump stopped working.  It was disconnected more than it was connected, where it used to be rock solid.  I splurged on the GE 12726 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and installed it yesterday.  It was simple to install and paired up faster than any other zwave device I have.  It did so about 50 ft from the hub, where line of sight takes the signal through an exterior wall, two walls of a garage, then through an 18' diameter above ground pool.  There is a GDO in between this device and the hub.  The front of the box has a couple of LED's showing status and a rubber covered button to turn on/off the load without having to open the cover.  Granted, it's been paired for less than 24 hours, but so far, so good.  I'll update this thread after a few weeks, or sooner if I start to have problems with it.  -Jim C

A few notes for those who may be interested:

The Iris app, Iris+, and thegillion's portal show it as a switch, though Iris shows 'uncertified device' at the bottom of the Iris device page.

On/Off controls function perfectly in all three.

Scheduling and rules work perfectly.

The Iris app and thegillion's portal both show energy usage which appears to be accurate (about 680 watts for the 1 HP motor).  Iris+ doesn't show the device under Energy Usage.

Both Iris+ and thegillion's portal show it as having 0% battery, but it does not use a battery.

On thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, the device exists under Battery Level (0%), but not Signal Level (EDIT:  I just realized that zwave devices are not listed under Signal)

The model number is not listed under the device on the Iris app, but is listed correctly in Iris+ and on thegillion's portal under Troubleshooting, All Devices.

thegillion, scunny and Terminal like this

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I want one of these but my pump is about 80 feet away and worried the signal won't be reliable enough. Can you confirm if this is at all like the bluetooth units that keep scheduling and timer locally? 

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"That IS a bit of a splurge, but appears to be just what you needed. Thanks for the review."

As long as it stays connected, it's exactly what I need.  I'm in upstate NY and have a solar heater connected to the pump.  On a sunny 80 deg day it will increase the pool temp by 5 deg in a single day.  If it rains and is chilly, it will decrease the pool temp by 5 deg or more in a day.  As I'm a wimp, I like to be able to remotely control the pump from anyplace to override the schedule and keep the pool as warm as possible.

 

"I want one of these but my pump is about 80 feet away and worried the signal won't be reliable enough. Can you confirm if this is at all like the bluetooth units that keep scheduling and timer locally?"

This is simply a 40 amp relay in a box with a zwave enabled switch.  There is no local scheduling.  However, you don't have to mount it at the pool pump.  I only did so because it was convenient and I could replace the existing box with this one in about 10 minutes.  If I have trouble keeping it connected, I'm going to put a junction box there and connect the wires, then mount this box in the garage next to the breaker panel.  If you have easy access at the other end of the circuit that runs the pool pump, that may be a better location for your installation.  

-Jim C

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Not a bad idea, I will have to look at the wiring and see if I can break it anywhere fairly easily. But the one thing I was really looking forward to was easy on off. Often I will reconnect the filter or vacuum after swimming and bump the pump just to make sure there are no leaks, I could still do that but would need the phone if I remote locate the panel.

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Jim,  

I was wondering if you could tell me the process you used to get this device to pair?  When I initially wired up the controller, it did pair as an unrecognized device, but I thought I'd give it one more chance to pair with the hub so I force removed it from the hub in an attempt to have it repair.  Now the device will not pair with the hub at all.  

I believe I need to do a hard reset of the 40 amp box, but I cannot find anywhere how to do that.  I was hoping your process might shed some light on this if you did anything other than wire up the box and turn it on for it to pair.

Thanks!

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oldfredbear,

By force removing the device it is removed from your Iris system, but the device probably still thinks it is paired to the system. I don't think there is a way to "reset" these devices, but if you go into the "Devices" list on your Iris app and scroll to the bottom, select "Z-Wave Tools" and then "Remove Z-Wave Devices" you should be able to then press the button on the front of the device and it should remove itself from the network. After that you should be able to pair it again. In general, I always try this if a Z-Wave device will not pair, just to make sure the device does not think it is still on another network (or even thinks it is still on my network, but my hub does not know about the device any longer).

Hope that helps.

pavalov likes this

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I paired it like any other device.  Once I started pairing, I scrolled through the page of 'brands' that are supported, and didn't really know what to do as it isn't supported.  It took only a few seconds on that page for it to show one new device.  I completed the process and it worked fine.  I wonder if you're too far away from the hub.  I've had regular GE Zwave switches pair as unrecognized if they were too far away.  

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Thanks, all.  Just a quick update for anyone who may have this same issue.  Even though the device originally paired with my hub located where it is normally and the outlet located where I installed it, I had to move the hub closer to the device for it to do a zwave removal with the hub.  Once I was able to use the zwave removal, it then repaired with the hub as an uncertified device.

It works fine now to turn the outlet on and off.

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Just an update:

My switch has been running flawlessly for almost a month.  There have been no disconnects and the schedule has been running perfectly.  I'm happy to report that even in upstate NY, my pool is up to 86 deg, thanks to this device and my solar heater.  -Jim C

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11 minutes ago, JimC said:

Just an update:

My switch has been running flawlessly for almost a month.  There have been no disconnects and the schedule has been running perfectly.  I'm happy to report that even in upstate NY, my pool is up to 86 deg, thanks to this device and my solar heater.  -Jim C

Off topic but what kind of solar heater? I am in NNJ and we are hovering around 70. 

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It's a 4'x20' Solar Bear heater, which works well for my 18' x 48" pool:

https://www.amazon.com/Fafco-Economy-Heating-System-Above-Ground/dp/B003B05HOU

I have it mounted on my garage roof.  Do yourself a favor and mount it at about a 10 deg angle.  That way you can drain it for the winter and not have to remove it from your roof.  I mounted mine perfectly level and can't get all the water out of it, so it has to be removed.  

Repair kits are pretty cheap too.  It takes 4 plugs to do one repair:

https://www.amazon.com/20-pack-Repair-Refill-Heliocol-SunStar/dp/B00OM7CHTY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_86_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PVW7KRK7H3WPRX1TGK3A

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Thanks, but my pool is about 3.5x's that size so I would need several of those and I just don't want an array of them through the yard. The roof on the house is just too far away but I am sure that would help add some more heat to the system. I guess I just keep living with a cool pool.

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On 7/25/2017 at 5:56 AM, JimC said:

I thought this was funny when I found it this morning.  Although not certified, look what's listed as a product on the irisbylowes.com site:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Z-Wave-40-Amp-Double-Pole-Wireless-Gray-Indoor-Outdoor-Push-Light-Switch/1000167785

Here is my 40 Amp solution, and it is supported by IRIS.  Use a smart plug to control this 40 amp relay.  http://amzn.to/2h4n9Dr

This relay has 2 normally open contacts.  You can use it to switch only the single hot wire on a 120VAC appliance, or wire it to switch both hot wires on a 240VAC appliance.

I use it to switch a 2 HP water pump.  I use another to control the power to the electric water heater during Off-Peak hours.  This (with a Smart Plug, or any z-Wave switch) could be used to control any device that needs an isolated switch, such as something battery operated.  Way less money than the item above.  

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