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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    If anyone is interested in beta testing Hubitat with V1 devices please PM me.
  2. 3 points
    No guarantees, but check this out! Very encouraging but still only in the lab right now!
  3. 3 points
    Also the invitation to beta has closed. Thanks to all that volunteered.
  4. 3 points
    Fingers crossed for the v1 contacts.
  5. 2 points
    It's looking more and more likely that Hubitat will be releasing support for V1 device. They've profiled and successfully tested the V1 SmartPlug, Keypad, and Motion sensor profiled and working in their test environment.
  6. 2 points
    And is actually available for purchase.. Is not a science experiment to set up.. And supports 50x more devices.
  7. 2 points
    Hubitat is 99 bucks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 2 points

    Thanks Iris!

    Well tonight my Iris system went off letting me know the stupid water softener overflowed again. So thank you again Iris...this could have been a huge mess. But this event highlighted how much I rely on Iris and the multiple notifications. I think I could have slept through the siren but for some reason the house phone ringing always seems to wake me up. So thanks again for possibly the last time.
  9. 1 point
    Just noticed that the Arcus code has been posted to https://github.com/arcus-smart-home. The pieces seem to be... arcusipcd arcusplatform arcusweb arcusios arcusandroid I've said it before, I will say it again. I am not of the skill set to tackle this solo, but I have skills to offer to get this flying... The question I have is, is anyone launching an open source project to manage this and get it off the ground? I'd hate to see Iris totally gone, and I have applications where I can still use my old 1st gen stuff, the hub etc...
  10. 1 point

    SmartThings experience so far

    This weekend I completed my migration to smartthings and so far I can say I am very pleased. In one weekend I've already been able to do MUCH more on smartthings than I ever could on iris... Observations so far: (1) Pairing devices was pretty much seamless. At the recommendation of others, I set up the v3 hub with the new app, then switched to the classic app for the remainder of my setup. I had an issue with a few z-wave devices that would not pair at first. I tried excluding them via the iris app, but the only way I could get them to pair was use the exclude function within the smartthings app. (2) The smart-things brand devices: motion sensors are much more sensitive than the old v1 iris ones I was using. I had to position them differently, but I made them work. The magnetic attachment is pretty slick though... It makes it easy to take them down or adjust the angle. For the buttons, I like that you can assign different functions to tap, double tap, and hold. I think this might have been possible with the iris v2 buttons, but not with the v1 buttons I was replacing. The contact sensors are also nice because they are "multi-function". They can act as a contact sensor, temperature sensor, vibration sensor, acceleration sensor, or tilt sensor. (3) SmartThings devices can trigger routines in alexa. This might get annoying eventually, but I created routines for alexa to speak when doors are open. This could open a lot of other possibilities as well. (4) Everything seems really stable... I never really had any stability issues with iris though. I moved my hub to a new location after setting up everything and I was afraid all the devices might not come back up, but everything came back pretty quickly. (5) The first party "smart lighting app" is really flexible and it RUNS LOCALLY. You can do a lot of your automation in this, and I would suggest you do anything you can within this app because it all runs locally. Seems to me that all my lighting rules run instantly... probably because they are not being processed in the cloud. Also, it allows you to create some additional criteria like "only if switch is off" (see next point) (6) The IDE allows digging into the system at a level not possible with iris... I was afraid it would take some time and there would be a steep learning cure to it, but fortunately what I've done so far was pretty straight forward. One of the cool tricks I came up with is to use a "simulated switch" created in the IDE in order to bypass a rule. For instance, I created a switch called "nap time". All of our bedroom lighting works on motion during normal "awake hours", but depends on this switch being off. If the "nap time switch" is turned on then none of the bedroom motion sensors will trigger lighting. To take this a step further, I enabled a power allowance rule that turns off the nap time switch if it has been on longer than 3 hours. This simulated switch can be turned on via alexa by saying "turn on nap time". It can also be triggered from an alexa routine called "it's nap time" which also has alexa verbally explain that nap time will be enable for 3 hours. I also created a similar setup for bathroom lighting, called "shower time" which gives you longer to take a shower before the lights turn off due to lack of motion. (7) Actiontiles: I've only started playing with this, but its really cool that I can have a tablet act as a touch screen controller for the entire house... Its a pretty slick setup. (8) Harmony hub integration: I can now control any of my lighting from my harmony remote and also assign lighting scenes as part of a logitech activity. I can also have my living room tv turn on as party of my "I'm back" routine in smartthings that happens automatically when the first family member arrives home, or it can turn off when the last person leaves if someone has forgot to turn it off (great for the bedroom TV). Speaking of location services... (9) Life 360 integration: I'm not using presence sensors to trigger home and away modes... my wife and I both use iPhones and I'm finding that the geofencing through life360 works really well. I like how quickly it detects we have left or arrived. (10) Integration with unsupported devices: Again, this goes back to the IDE, but I've found github projects to integrate with my ring alarm system and nest thermostat which are not natively supported. I've only recently setup the ring alarm integration, so the verdict is still out but it seems to work without any issue. I'm not a big fan of the nst manager smartapp, but at least it gets me some basic integration (thinking about switching to ecobee) It seems that "where there's a will, there's a way" in smartthings. If someone else hasn't figured out how to do it, it's probably because no one has bothered to try. (11) IFTTT: When all else fails, you can automate things via IFTTT. This opens up a whole slew of possibilities, however I've found very little I couldn't do outside of the built in integrations and/or custom device handlers through the IDE. (12) Device mirroring: This is something I always wished was available in iris. I have a light switch for outdoor lights that is difficult to get to and I wanted it to turn on and off along with my front porch lights. This was easy to setup in smartthings. I've only been running smartthings for a few days, but so far I would say I am really happy with the possibilities... and I haven't even gotten into webcore yet. I haven't needed to, but I'm sure that is something I will naturally want to explore in the future.
  11. 1 point
    There is a lot more that needs to happen. WIthout even glancing at the code, there is a cloud component to it, that would have to be set up, and the rest of the pieces would need to be pointed to the cloud part. Any missing holes in the code need to be filled in, and tons of testing needs to happen. The code right now is sitting at https://github.com/arcus-smart-home Anyone can grab it, and have a good run at it. I'd rather see this handled in an organized, sensible fashion, with one project working with multiple team members trying to achieve a common goal, nothing of that type has visibly emerged yet, but there are hints and whispers of such a project... Be patient..
  12. 1 point
    For Alexa - have you installed the Amazon Echo SKill app on Hubitat before trying to find devices with Alexa? This step wasn't required with Iris, but it is for Hubitat, even if you enabled the Hubitat skill on your Echo. Feel free to as your Hubitat specific questions on the HE Community pages. I posted a question on an issue I was having and had a couple responses within minutes and resolution shortly thereafter. The forums there are fantastic with many members offering assistance and you should get quicker responses with HE specific eyes on your posts.
  13. 1 point
    Thanks Vettestr, now I just have to figure how to make a better device handler on Smartthings. My goal is to get audio streaming and video.
  14. 1 point
    All of my cameras are now up and running and are independent of a hub. Some wired, some wireless and some utilizing mirror and flip, all using full 1280x720 resolution. Note: As far as I know his only works if you have not yet paired to Iris Version 2.0. Your camera must have the Iris v1 firmware on it. I have never reset and tried this on a camera that has had v2 firmware on it. If you try it with a camera with v2 firmware on it and the default password works let me know and I will update this post. Edit: This works on any Iris camera as long as it has been fully reset. Thanks for testing Vettester. Also note that if you reset and pair to either Iris hub your settings that you applied with the API will be lost. The idea here it to be able to use the cameras with third party software or to view them in a web browser until such time as we have local viewing in v2. After all, the only real reason to have cameras paired to Iris is to have them record upon alarm. But for everyday checking of your home, children and pets you need independent viewing applications that have capabilities above and beyond what can be expected from the Iris app. First and foremost is to be able to view them all at one time in real time. It is beyond cumbersome to navigate through the Iris app to view numerous cameras with streaming delays and the ability to see only one camera at a time. Besides, I don't need Iris to do this, there are programs and apps that have been in development for years that are very good at this and there is no need for the developers to waste time recreating these features and bogging up the Iris app. Just give us access to the cameras and record from them during alarm, that's all we need. First thing to do is to remove the device from the Iris hub and connect the camera to your network via an ethernet cable. Make note of the cameras ip address. It is a good idea to set a static ip address in your router so that you can keep track of where your cameras are on the network. Wait for an ok response in your browser before moving to the next url command. Next enter this url in your web browser. yourcamerasipaddress/adm/get_group.cgi?group=NETWORK substituting yourcamerasipaddress with the actual address. You will be prompted for a username and password. Enter the following: Isername: alertme Password: nFQTEm*s67uxuF**a2vAth7RoJ This password and logon will only work if you have reset your camera. For anyone wondering I found this password in the wild here: https://shkspr.mobi/blog/2013/11/hacking-around-with-network-cameras/ Now let’s make sure that the camera is fully reset. Enter the following url in your web browser: yourcamerasipaddress/adm/reset_to_default.cgi Then enter this url and wait for the camera to reboot: yourcamerasipaddress/adm/reboot.cgi Now it is time to start setting it up. Let’s get the highest resolution and widest field of view possible by entering the following urls waiting for an ok response after each one. I actually gained some field of view from what I had before: yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=H264&resolution=4 yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=JPEG&resolution=4 If you need mirror and flip enter the following: yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=VIDEO&flip=1 yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=VIDEO&mirror=1 Now let’s set the time zone by entering the url below (changing the number 7) to whichever timezone number that you need from the following: 2 (GMT-10:00) Hawaii 3 (GMT-09:00) Alaska 4 (GMT-08:00) Pacific Time (US & Canada), Tijuana 5 (GMT-07:00) Arizona 6 (GMT-07:00) Chihuahua, La Paz, Mazatlan 7 (GMT-07:00) Mountain Time (US & Canada) 8 (GMT-06:00) Central America 9 (GMT-06:00) Central Time (US & Canada) 13 (GMT-05:00) Eastern Time (US & Canada) yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=SYSTEM&time_zone=7 Now turn on daylight savings time by entering: yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=SYSTEM&daylight_saving=1 Now get your wireless setup by entering the following changing the number 2 in the security url to the number for the protocol you use using on your router from the following chart: 0 - None 1 - WEP 2 - WPA/WPA2-PSK 3 - WPA PSK TKIP 4 - WPA PSK AES 5 - WPA2 PSK TKIP 6 - WPA2 PSK AES 7 - WPA enterprise 8 - WPA PSK 9 - WPA2 PSK yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=WIRELESS&wlan_essid=thessidnamethatyourrouteruses yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=WIRELESS&wlan_domain=12 yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=WIRELESS&wlan_security=2 yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=WIRELESS&wpa_ascii=thewirelessnetworkpassword Here is how to check your wireless settings yourcamersipaddtess/adm/get_group.cgi?group=WIRELESS Now let’s change the camera password and logon to something that you can remember by entering yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=USER&admin_password=yoursecretpassword When you enter the next url, you will be prompted for logon credentials. Enter alertme as the logon and the new password that you entered above yourcamersipaddtess/adm/set_group.cgi?group=USER&admin_name=yournewusername From this point forward your new password and logon will work. When it is time to pair to v2 all you have to do is perform a total reset on the cameras and they will revert to the original alertme password, logon and defaults. Below you will find a link to more api information. Somethings that I'd like to play with going forward is frame rates and maybe how to turn on the microsd card slot and its associated settings. https://github.com/edent/Sercomm-API/blob/master/README.md Thevolget has posted a link to a pdf of the complete API here: http://forum.livingwithiris.com/index.php?/topic/2633-how-to-take-total-control-of-your-iris-cameras-with-the-api/&do=findComment&comment=32284
  15. 1 point
    Although I applaud SRF's progress they are years behind. Hubitat is amazing. Far more powerful than IRIS.
  16. 1 point


    I currently have twelve Generation 1 Smart Buttons on my SystronicsRF system and they function just like they do on the IRIS system.
  17. 1 point


    I've got five v1 Smart Buttons and the Iris V1 Keypad controlling activities nicely in SystronicsRF. List of items joined to SystronicsRF and functioning so far for me: 5 gen 1 Smart Buttons 1 gen 1 keypad 6 gen 1 Smart Plugs 1 GE Plug-in Dimmer 5 GE and Leviton wall switches and dimmers 1 gen 1 keyfob 1 Leaksmart Water Shutoff Valve 4 Utilitech Flood Sensors 11 gen 1 door/window sensors 6 gen 1 motion sensors
  18. 1 point


    Yes it is.
  19. 1 point

    What Platform Should I Migrate To

    I’ve been moving everything over to SystronicsRF and in the process I noticed something in the Iris app that I found kind of ironic.
  20. 1 point

    Iris CAMs working on ST

    I was having the same exact issue. (Camera unavailable) Followed the instructions to a T. I had to change the last device setting "Does Camera Use POST or GET" I changed it to POST. Now I have live streaming and sound in ST. See if that solves it for you. I did not have to remove the camera from Iris hub before doing this. Thank you everyone for your help!
  21. 1 point
    Making the switch to Hubitat. So far so good. Most thing have been switched over, or replaced. I swapped out all my V1 smart switches with IKEA TRADFI switches. I was reimbursed $35 for each switch and these are $9.95 at IKEA! My OSRAM RBGW controller came over, as did my GoControl thermostat. I know my Orbit sprinkler is likely to be junk, but I'm going to use the Iris Web Portal event log to try to reverse engineer the communications and build a driver. Assuming I have time left! The last big things to migrate are my door locks. These will be a pain because they require secure ZWave and need to be close to the hub, so I either take them off the door or get a really long Ethernet cable. I like the integration with Alexa better because you can create groups that respond to on and off vocal commands. With Iris it was a scene, and Alexa could only run (turn on) a scene. So I night I used to says "Alexa, turn on good night", to turn off all my lights. Now I have an All Lights groups (which uses Zigbee broadcasting!) and all I say is "Alexa, turn off all lights". I'm a programmer, so I found Hubitat fairly easy, but I think it will be less intuitive for non-programmer types. Not to say it is obscure, but it is not as easy as Iris was. So far I'm very happy with Hubitat.
  22. 1 point

    Desired outcome for Arcus.

    I was able to build both apps after pulling them from the repositories. The iOS app does not do much as it attempts to connect to your local machine to login (which makes sense since eventually you would have to provide the connection strings to your particular instance of the Arcus platform). Surprisingly the Android application actually connected to the still running Iris servers and I could use it to access my Iris account (which now only contains an offline hub, but I was able to login to the account so I assume the rest of the app was fully functional). It was very generous of Lowe's to make all these resources (including all the graphics images) available to the open source community and I look forward to seeing the platform and hub software released at some point as well. Hopefully once that occurs other vendors may be able to leverage what is there to also support the Iris V1 devices (I hope at least the Contact Sensors, Motion Sensors, Plugs, and Smart Buttons).
  23. 1 point
    So I have a Sony 4K Smart TV that has the Android platform built into it. I installed TinyCam Pro on the TV and now I'm able to view my camera feed on a 65" screen that is upscaled to 4K. I don't have any SD cards laying around to test the onboard storage functionality, but TinyCam Pro has the ability to upload to a cloud based service so I linked it to my Google Drive account and discovered it will upload still images based on the motion function of the TinyCam app. I haven't figured out the audio yet, but it's only a matter of time
  24. 1 point
    Confirmed working with a nice mix of indoor and outdoor cameras split between V1 and V2. Thanks!!
  25. 1 point
    I have verified that this works on an indoor camera that was paired to a V2 hub. Thanks Otto!