G35Rider

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G35Rider last won the day on January 22 2017

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About G35Rider

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    Irvine, CA
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    Home alarm systems, home automation, cars, electronics, GPS technology, frequency and timing products.
  1. All, I filed this on the IRIS Community board under their Bug reports for Android App. 2.8: --------------------------------- 2.8 App in general, including the fingerprint feature, works pretty well. However, this is a minor annoyance in the fingerprint prompt. I woke up my Android phone (Galaxy S6) and was given the IRIS App login screen with the fingerprint prompt since that's where I left the app. when I put the phone to sleep. However, I wasn't planning on using the app. so I hit cancel which correctly closed down the app. but (in my opinion) incorrectly logged me out all the way. The next login into the app. I had to re-enter my e-mail/password. Closing down the app. and logging back in correctly invokes the fingerprint function from this point. Suggest not logging out the user completely when selecting "Cancel" on the fingerprint verification step.
  2. Reboot hub from Mobile App?

    Hm... My phone not finding the latest 2.8 either. Like sparc, I'm also stuck at 2.7.0 with no updates. Samsung Galaxy S6. Guess I'll just have to wait and see.
  3. Motion Sensor Inside Safe?

    Some folks on this forum have had varying degrees of success with devices in enclosures (mailbox) and even in a jacuzzi... Is this a V1/V2 motion? Best way is to try it with your particular application but try to avoid disconnects in the first place. If it can maintain connection, you're set. If not, you can try to put a repeater somewhere close to the safe (V2 smart plug, etc.).
  4. GE Devices Having Trouble

    I was thinking this may have been the case too - one center device has ceased routing the others. If after your optimization has completed and still have missing devices, the next thing you can try is to restart all your switches. You can cut power (via the breaker) to those switches briefly, and power them back on. Then follow that up with another hub reset.
  5. 2GIG Go!Control panel

    Unfortunately your 2GIG sensors will not be compatible with IRIS. 2GIG uses their own wireless communication protocol and frequencies (at 345MHz). The IRIS ecosystem utilizes either ZigBee or ZWave as their protocol for sensors. That's not to say that if you already have some automation products like wall switches, or as Vett pointed out, the thermostat, for your 2GIG panel (they're ZWave), it might work on IRIS but don't quote me on that. Fun fact - the IRIS Utilitech-branded glass break sensors for IRIS (GB-00Z-1) look awfully similar to 2GIG's version since Linear is behind both sensors. It's still not compatible to IRIS because it also uses 2GIG's wireless protocol. It appears the specs are a little different as well between 2GIG's and IRIS' version.
  6. Pairing GE 12727

    I'm assuming you didn't hear the triple beep for pairing success? - When you toggle on/off the switch, does the internal relay click (checks for proper installation)? Try your "Remove from network" procedure again - it could be that the switch needs to be reset: - In the IRIS App, go to the Devices page - At the very bottom is a button called "ZWave Tools" - Select "Remove Z-Wave Devices", then select the button of the same name - Once in that mode, move the installed switch to the "off" position, and it should trigger two beeps from the hub. The app should probably show something like "Unknown switch" or something but that's ok since it was never paired - Get out of the Remove Z-wave mode in your app. Reset your hub by holding the reset button (small button next to the Ethernet cable) for about 2 seconds. Hub should respond with a long beep. After the hub illuminates a solid green light, try your re-pair process again
  7. Merry Christmas!!!

    Thanks, you too and all on this forum! And I wish my tree looked like that...
  8. Happy holidays Iris device test list.

    Cool - thanks! I think I spotted the new ST Leak sensor sensor in the list with a YouTube link which should hopefully mean it's way to being certified right? Best Buy had a sale a few weeks back for the ST Leak Sensor and ST Outlet, which I picked up a couple. Unfortunately currently no worky on IRIS. Hopefully soon though - I mean, Lowes even has them in-stock right?
  9. Smitho, I'd try to get that FW updated. Between two homes with their wired versions for alarm panels, and the older Zigbee ones I currently use for Iris ( ISW-ZPR1-WP13 ), Bosch sensors have been super-dependable for me. I can't comment on their pet-immune performance but in general I've not had a single false alarm from them. One of mine is even pointed toward stainless-steel appliances, and an exterior window, a location where my old V1 Iris sensors were having issues with false-trips. As usual, proper installation applies - 7.5' off ground, away from false-trip sources. On another note, until I stumbled onto this thread, I didn't even know Bosch had released these newer models. I'm also having trouble finding these on the Lowes website. Are you guys finding these in your local Lowes stores?
  10. Notification of lost connection

    Read this post today and tried it. Well - indeed it does log it now! I removed my Ethernet cable from the hub at approx. 7:59pm PDT. At about 8:30pm I get a app. notification and an e-mail that the hub has gone offline. Checked app, and History does show a entry for lost connection. I reconnected the Ethernet cable and once I get the solid green LED, I immediately get another app. notification + e-mail that the hub has reconnected. And History properly reflects this as well. I tried it again at 8:40pm and got a notification at 9:11pm. So it looks like you'll need to have a hub that's been offline for about 30 minutes before Iris will send you notifications about it. To me that's perfectly acceptable and this behavior is the way I'd expect it to work. Fantastic!
  11. Iris web portal V1.3.1

    Mine has been working as expected for a while now. My problems occurred when scheduling odd intervals, like "water every 3 days" on V2. May not be a one-size-fits-all solution but sometimes when schedules on this timer gets screwed up, I've found it effective to force the hub to push a new watering schedule to the timer. I usually water using the "Weekly" mode. I switch it to interval mode, wait for the push to occur in the "History", then switch it back to "Weekly", and then see that represented in the History. I didn't have to unpair the device in this case.
  12. Motion Bypass

    "On" is like the "Away" feature on traditional alarm systems. "Partial" is like the "Stay" feature. "On & Partial" is use a sensor for both modes. In your application - per what thegillion posted above, set your upstairs motion detectors to "On" (not participating when alarm set to Partial). Your downstairs sensors need to be set to "On & Partial". When you sleep at night use "Partial" mode and use "On" when you leave the house.
  13. Maintenance notice from Iris

    ..as well as the Alarm functions. Sweet.
  14. False Fire/Smoke Alarms

    sparc, I don't have a good answer for you on this one. However, I recently had a single smoke detector false on me as well. This detector is in the middle of my second floor hallway, and on the night of July 4th and through the 5th, it would go off every few hours. I live less than half mile from the site of a firework launching site so I attributed the false alarms to the particulates in the air. I do leave the bedroom windows open on the evenings so no doubt some of the particulates could have come in, but I'm not sure why the actual bedroom smoke detectors didn't go off, but instead, just the hallway one. I removed the detector from the hallway (checked the batteries too) and with the batteries intact, just left the detector sitting in the dining room table and hasn't falsed since. I'm going to mount the detector back in the hallway later today - crossing my fingers it doesn't false. In your case, I'd try to determine if it's specific to the detector or the current location of that detector.
  15. My iris grade is...

    C - At the risk of sounding like a broken record - still no offline processing though we were told that it is "in the works". For a system that has made strides to improve its security aspects (with professional monitoring (!!!) ), no offline processing for the alarm portion is just plain stupid, stupid, stupid... If it truly is in the works, the release of this functionality is horrifically overdue by any metrics of any software industry. Feels like it's only being worked on a single dev's spare time if at all at this point. - Closed system - why does this system have to remain closed? On one hand it supports all of IRIS's own proprietary products (ie. Alertme's V1 products) which in itself is a good justification for being a closed system, but the system also allows for certain 3rd party sensors to be part of the system though not IRIS-certified.... Why not just open the API for 3rd party devices - even if it's only for non-security items? - Overall, my systems' stability is pretty good. I don't get random sensor dropoffs, rules work as they should, though, from time to time a rule (or a schedule) doesn't fire off as it should. It's rare enough I don't mind too much. - Alexa integration is always a plus.