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About acadiel

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  1. Anyone have a smart plug (2nd gen) take a crap?

    I called Support up finally... they gave me three months credit, so I'm going to use that to buy a new one. No surge that I'm aware of. Nothing else in the house had issues; and this was on a surge protector itself.
  2. Anyone have a smart plug (2nd gen) take a crap?

    Nope. Water gets nowhere near this power strip behind the couch.
  3. Anyone have a smart plug (2nd gen) take a crap?

    Just a LED table lamp. Nothing too major. I'll call support tomorrow. I just usually dread calling them though :-)
  4. Anyone have a smart plug (2nd gen) take a crap?

    I already opened it up... and it's probably more than a year old at this point. Had to use a screwdriver to get it open. I'll just integrate my Wemo into the Alexa skill that manages this group of lights downstairs for right now.
  5. The capacitor on here appears to have just incinerated and flipped the breaker. Of course, it's dead now, so I opened it up to see what failed. Anyone else's do this?
  6. Anyone else having issues around 4 pm Eastern?

    Still missing some functionality. 1) Kids FOBs still aren't showing up on the family card, and thus not triggering any rules. The FOBs do show up in Devices. 2) The IRIS Garage door opener is still ghosted out. I can't do anything with it.
  7. Anyone else having issues around 4 pm Eastern?

    I sense a Problem Record being generated and they probably have all their support team correlating incidents and working on identifying the errors... their IT department for IRIS must be swarming with a lot of stressed out analysts right about now.
  8. Anyone else having issues around 4 pm Eastern?

    Just tried mine.. it's working. Although, the only thing I control with it is the downstairs lights and the two thermostats
  9. Anyone else having issues around 4 pm Eastern?

    Still having a few quirks with the app as of 5:03ET. Home and Family card still doesn't list the four first generation key FOBs Garage door opener open/close button is ghosted out in Devices and under Doors and Locks Scenes -> my scene -> Choose what this Scene does still doesn't show any of the actual four actions
  10. Anyone else having issues around 4 pm Eastern?

    I thought it was strange last night when I could not unlock/lock my doors. Another quirk - my first gen key FOBs for my four kids are still listed under devices, but the system is not showing them under the "home and family" card. In fact, the Home and Family card just has the "learn more" button on it. So, that also means my rules about making sure the doors are locked after each kid leaving aren't working either. I've reset the hub and force quit the app (and tried apps on multiple devices), yet the lock rules aren't working, nor are the devices showing up on the "home and family" card. You know, this gets rather frustrating, Lowe's.... at least tell me when you're going to do crap like this. Edit: Also, if I go under my scenes, and find my "Good Night" scene... and then click on actions (it says there's four), I get a blank screen that says "Actions" as the title, then "Recommended For You" with "More Devices needed" underneath it. No four rules being listed. Sheesh.
  11. Got this working, and it seems to be working pretty well so far. Most of this stuff I had laying around already. What you need: 1) T-Mobile hotspot: I'm using the ZTE Z-917 hotspot. It has its own battery backup. 2) Data Plan: I'm on a 2GB for $10 T-Mobile data plan. ($10 because I already have service and no taxes). That's high speed 4G data. If it runs out, then you still have 2G/128K data, which should work. Note: I have this dedicated to just IRIS. Nothing else is using it. 3) Edimax BR-6258n nano router. The Yeah, it's tiny, and uses Micro USB. 4) A UPS. I have a APC 500 UPS backing up the hotspot, IRIS, and the Edimax. With that low of a current draw, it will last a very long time. Instructions: 1) Set up the hotspot and verify it's all set up and working (connect a laptop to it via Wifi and make sure you can get to the Internet) 2) On the Edimax, hook up the laptop to the LAN port (via wired) with your laptop, disable your laptop's built in Wifi temporarily, and go to the Edimax web UI (typically or something like that). Go to the WAN settings and WISP mode. Do a site survey and find your T-Mobile hotspot, and select it and put in the password. 3) Go the the Edimax settings for Wifi. Set the mode from AP to "Infrastructure mode". Apply the settings and reboot the Edimax. 4) Once the Edimax reboots, give it a minute to create a WAN WiFi link to the T-Mobile Hotspot and then, on your laptop, try getting to the Internet with your LAN port you have hooked up from step #2. If you can get to Google and can also get to the T-Mobile hotspot (typically, then you have Internet. 5) Connect the Ethernet cord from the LAN port on the Edimax to IRIS. Give IRIS a minute to quit flashing the lights, and then you should be good to go! I'm running this, and it seems rather stable, so will report back with any pitfalls.

    Well, depends on who's doing the ask. I have about 50 devices. No offline presence - Are you referring to 'offline processing'? I equate this to 'no cell backup'. Camera issues for local viewing - Don't own cameras No temp or energy graphs - Never used these. No lock pin schedule - Never used this. No cell backup - Yes, and they said they're working on it... so will patiently wait a month or two for it to come in. No light groups - Never used this So, to me, yeah, offline processing/Cell Backup is really the only things that need to be worked on... Everything else that I used the system for still works like it's supposed to, save the phantom thermostat jacking up the max temp to 95. I consider the functionality of the device pretty equivalent to what I had before. I know some of you have strong feelings otherwise and I respect that... I'm setting up a T-Mobile MiFi (2GB data plan for $10) coupled to an Edimax in "WISP" mode (which lets me plug Iris into Ethernet, and use the T-Mobile MiFi), and that'll kill the cell backup problem until Lowe's releases the cellular solution. The offline solution.. there is no reason why a daemon wouldn't be able to run on the SoC that's in the V2 and handle stuff until the Internet comes back. So yeah... that's just embedded electronics programming knowledge that's needed for Lowe's to do that. The thing likely runs either an embedded Linux (BusyBox) or something like VxWorks. So, it's not that hard if you get the right engineer working on it.

    Feature parity, close enough. I've had V1 for ages (back when they very first launched it). What's missing? Everything else seems to be working just fine, save not having cell backup. About the only thing I keep have happening is a hiccup with my upstairs thermostat setting the upper cooling bound to 95 (even though it's 75 on the app). That's about all that's malfunctioning right now.
  14. Hi, all.... Migration went well, and still am fine tuning rules. Water sensor for washing machine was only thing refusing to pair, and support had to manually remove several ghost devices, but we got it working. Having a glitch with the Zwave garage door opener saying it's open when it's closed and vice-versa. Started happening after the migration. Tilt sensor is installed, battery checks out. Obvious rebooting, etc. What do I need to do to get it back into sync? Obviously, I don't want my door opening when the Away scene starts :-) My Craftsman opener is just a simple toggle... But I thought the tilt sensor was supposed to orient the controller as to the open/closed status. Thanks!
  15. Update to V2 or stay with V1?

    (Thanks for the reply!) So, with V1, you can add multiple 'users' that each have their own distinct login to one system. Each person has their own door pin for the Kwikset locks, each person has their own email address, and phone number. Is this possible with V2? Edit: I might wait a little longer, as I really would like the Verizon backup modem to work. Edit 2: The safety alarm part I mentioned above is a distinct section in the Magic rules for when a safety alarm device goes off (water alarm, smoke alarm, etc.)