baa

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Everything posted by baa

  1. baa

    Well ring is out

    The forwarded ports are directed to the Ring hub, not to the remainder of the system... so you are relying on the security of that device.
  2. baa

    Well ring is out

    I have recently set up a Ring Doorbell Pro and a Ring Security System. FYI both are on sale thru 12/24/18 at Costco.com with the security system available also at the stores. General commentary: I am generally pleased with the build quality of both sets of devices. The Pro camera is decent, giving a good 1080p picture to my smart phone and two way audio. Occasionally my phone when connected to local WiFi (somewhat slow DSL from Century Link) does not receive a picture. However, if I connect to TMobile LTE, it seems to work better. The version of the Pro I purchased was from Best Buy, and included a free Echo Dot and a free chime pro/range extender. It uses the Ring Android App to get configured. There are some ports that had to be opened on my router, and Ring 2nd level tech support, was very very helpful in assisting me in configuring this (although apparently it is against their policy to do so). I ran into an extremely helpful and knowledgeable 2nd level person. However, those port forwarding settings appeared to disable the Iris Hub, which could no longer connect. The alarm system install is straight forward, and much easier than Iris. The Hub has a rechargeable 24 hr backup battery built in. It also has a cellular backup built in, but this only becomes active if you join their $10/mo or $100/yr pro monitoring program. In my case, the cell phone signal for the carrier they use (ATT) is too weak here to be practical. The Hub also has a built in 110db siren. Installation is easy,.. the Ring app walks you through it, with videos as necessary. Scanning a code identifies the contents of the box, including all included sensors, each with its own ID number. These populate the app. You first connect the hub, either to ethernet, or via wifi... and from there, pull the tab on each device one at a time. The device makes a connection to the hub, and you can rename it, and describe its location, mount or place the device, then do the next device. Relatively quick, and all devices connected without issue. You do not have to be near the hub to do this, I was on a different floor from the hub. The only issue during installation was a low battery in the key pad. The key pad, hub, and range extender batteries are recharged when those units are plugged in to ac power. Technical support is available, wait times vary, as short as 5 min or as long as 20 min, depending on time of day, how busy they are, etc. So far I am decently pleased with the units. IMHO, better or similar quality to Iris V1. Price is fairly reasonable. Support is available, and so far, has a good attitude. 2nd level very competent, and first level decent. Monthly fees are required for camera storage $3/mo/camera for cloud storage, 60 days unlimited. For the alarm, $10/mo enables professional central monitoring, cellular backup, and also as many Ring cameras (including storage) as you want to connect in the same location. Since Amazon acquired this for 1 Billion from its original owners, I expect them to expand this and integrate it more tightly with Echo/Alexa. This is a new installation, and I will know more with experience and use. Additional information: The key pad is voice enabled and speaks to you when armed or disarmed. At this time, echo dot can arm the system, "Alexia turn on Ring", but does not disarm the system. This must be done from the Keypad or phone. For this to occur, Alexia Ring Skills must be enabled also local "drop in" on the echo device. Door and window sensors beep twice when opened (default). The $10/mo plan seems to include an extended service/replacement policy on the alarm and camera devices for as long as this plan subscription is active. The doorbell camera is viewable on android phones and tablets, mixed results with chrome books. The Ring policy is to replace any doorbell camera that is stolen at no charge, provided they receive a copy of the police report. New Ring interior cameras (powered, or battery) are currently available at Best Buy, but seem a little pricey. The Amazon policy seems to be to discount the entry level products sharply to get you hooked (Echo Dot, $29, Best Buy, or free with Ring Pro Doorbell, Best Buy), but then later charge higher fees for add ons, such as the Ring interior cameras $179 (current non sale price, Best Buy) or Echo Show 2nd Gen $229. The Amazon eco-system expands, and each product tends to integrate and support other products. For example Echo -> Amazon Music or Echo Show -> Prime Video, or Echo to Kindle Books or Audible. Addictive, and gets you to voluntarily support Jeff Bezos. Very smart guy. Compelling. Update 12/31/18: So far, very pleased with the product. The app is good, both on android and the web version. Videos with audio are viewable in either spot, and downloadable (although I have not tried a download yet}. Quality of the app and website are quite good, what you would expect of a well resourced company devoting high priority its product. Over all very pleased, and will probably buy more.
  3. baa

    Power Outage Notifications

    Reply to OhioYJ: >>>Now if only they would add this for the hub going offline or at least the option to be notified. I am notified by email when the hub looses connection to the Iris cloud. I am again notified by email when the connection is restored.
  4. baa

    Wink hub 2??

    Wink Hub 2 appears to be designed for local processing. Here is a review of Wink vs Smart Things, this was probably done before Hub 2 is out, which has generally gotten favorable reviews. Also Wink support is US based, and in my experience appears to be somewhat knowledgeable. http://razzed.com/2016/05/09/ive-abandoned-smartthings-for-wink/
  5. Posted from a thread in the Help/Questions forum re V2 not being able to get thru my Router/Modem for further background, see that thread. Dan8785, on 20 Jun 2016 - 07:31 AM, said: Dan, that might be a workable solution, and if I had received your message a bit earlier, may have tried it out... however, as of a couple hours ago, all the Iris V1 gear I have accumulated has been returned to my local Lowes, for a complete refund. I had spoken to one of the local managers a month ago and reviewed the status of Iris V1 and V2 with him, and at that time he indicated that if I could not make V2 work satisfactorily, he would accept the return. The return was easy, with Lowes store personnel very cooperative. I had a great experience with V1, most everything worked, and what did not, was returned (swapped out) and the swapped out material worked. I can not say that for V2. As outlined above, V2 could not make it through my router/modem, regardless of any settings prescribed by Iris Support Level1, Iris support Level2, or Lowes Executive Support. As far as I know, I still have an open incident with Level 2, and Lowes Executive Support. Neither Level2 or the developers, or Lowes Executive support could provide a resolution... Although V1 continued to work fine. Even with the June 30th clock ticking, there just did not seem to be any urgency among those support folks. No one would take ownership and solve the issue. I even suggested that they buy me a cheap router to place behind my router/modem (if it would work) which would ultimately be less expensive for Lowes than buying back all my V1 gear (which they would then have to toss) ... but apparently, no one has the freedom to think out of the box. Corporation too big I guess... and everyone doing just their little job. Anyway, I am now looking for a replacement system. I did keep one of the Lowes cameras and am using it (along with my other cameras) with third party software. Appreciate the suggestions from everyone here on this forum... I will place a copy of this in the general thread.
  6. Firewall Issue? My V2 Hub does not see Iris Servers. V1 works Just Fine. Well, Iris V2 strikes again. Just thought I would get a little ahead of the game and get the new hub firmware updated before attempting a migration. Downloaded the V2 app, registered, plugged in the V2 hub, added the batteries... and vola... flashing red and green lights. Support says this means the hub cannot see the Iris servers... Of course, V1 works just fine thru the same modem and firewall. Support says port forward ports 443 and 80. Ok, did that. Same flashing lights. Reset the hub... same. Anyone have any ideas on this? Waiting for 2nd level support to call back... but if this does not work, looks like I have no choice but complete return of the system. Anyone have any ideas re this? DSL service provider is Century Link, modem is a Actiontek PK5000. Any suggestions (that wind up working) welcome.
  7. Yes, I see that. I managed to find a youtube video essentially saying the same thing yesterday, but I appreciate the link and thanks for your input... Question: If you do this I assume the passthru turns off the firewall in the PK5000, and that the router is providing DNS IP addresses for the network attached to the router. If so, are you able to continue to use the cat5 ports in the PK5000? Are they protected by the firewall in your router or are they unprotected and outside the firewall? Will the router assign IP addresses to devices attached to those ports? Does the DMZ still work on the PK5000 or is that disabled? I ask because my IP telephony device is hosted there. Also, do you need the Century Link or Verison password to the DSL link from the modem to the phone carrier? I know that is originally necessary for the modem, but what passes for tech support at Century Link thinks I will need it for the new router. Thanks again for your imput... this is less than familiar territory for me.
  8. The user name and password are no issue, I have set them myself. However, the quick setup page shows no link to passthrough mode. Could you be a bit more explicit on where this link is, and what it looks like? My carrier was Quest, now Century Link.
  9. Can you outline the steps to set this actiontec modem/router to "passthrough mode"? I would like to keep my devices on the 192.168.0.1 subnet (which is being supplied currently by the actiontec as a router). Much appreciate your reply.
  10. Let me rephrase that: I don't want to re assign the static ip addresses of 6 ip cameras to a new subnet, or re configure the existing nvr software to accommodate Iris V2, or put up with the network speed degradation that seems to accompany this setup, and router.
  11. I am not a networking guru either... but I do not want to migrate my working cameras or nvr software to the new subnet, or use a router that accesses the web at 1/4 the speed of my existing router through my existing router. I do not have to do this except to accommodate Iris V2 (V1 worked fine). Anyway, at this point, I will live without it. I do have the V2 hub, and IF someone can figure how to get a solid green light with my setup here, I will buy a few Iris V2 test devices... otherwise, I have been refunded and made whole, except for the time spent on this.
  12. Well, we tried the idea of setting up a new router behind the existing router/modem. Noticed the following: The new router set up its own subnet, so all my fixed ip cameras and two brands of NVR software would have to be reconfigured, and the new router has an internet throughput of approximately 1/4 the speed of a direct connection through the router modem. Not a satisfactory result... so off to return. I expect unless Lowes comes out with a way to make this work through my existing router/modem I will be forced to leave the product.
  13. No, they provided some ports to open, which did not solve the issue. Turning off the firewall in the router/modem solved the issue, but not exactly a secure solution.
  14. The problem modem/router is an Actiontec PK5000 supplied by Quest, now Century Link.
  15. Update on this: Between Lowes Executive Support and 2nd level Iris support, it looks like we may have a handle on this issue. It appears my modem/router is not compatible with Iris V2... the answer appears to be -- buy an additional router to place behind the router/modem supplied by the phone company, open the firewall on the original modem/router, and rely on the new router's firewall for protection. Meantime, the hub can go on any ip plug on the original router, with its firewall turned off. Now, I may be picky (yes) or cheap (yes) or just retired IT on a limited income (yes) but I did not feel that I should pay for a new router when everything else here works fine (including Iris V1) with the current router. 2nd level support scrounged around and found an old Lowes Gift Card for $50 left over from some other promotion and sent it to help defer the cost of the new router. At the time, Lowes cheapest router was $82. I found it for $52 on line from a compeditor, and lowes.com price matched. So, essentially 2nd level agreed to pay for my additional router purchase required by V2. Do I think this is a good thing? Yes. So... in the mean time, as previously reported, all my V1 stuff was returned... so now I am going to buy some V2 stuff, (once the router arrives and the solution is found to work) in small quantities, and test it thoroughly as to reliability, false alarms, stability, etc. Stay tuned. Also, many thanks to Lowes Executive support (not technically knowledgable, but genuinely want to help and solve problems) and 2nd level Iris, who I think want to make V2 a better product.
  16. baa

    My two cents ......... :-)

    Thank you for your insight, and a bit of behind the scenes. I had to drop Iris today... although V1 worked fine for me V2 could not make it through my router/modem unless i turned off the firewall or opened all external ports. Neither "solution" acceptable. I saw some months back that Lowes was looking for an "Agile" developer to head their team, and to quote from Star Wars, I had "a bad feeling about this..." I do not want to subject myself to a V1 turn off ever again... so my solution has got to stand alone, and not be dependent on third party software which I do not own or hold a license to... Here is my goodbye to iris thread: http://forum.livingwithiris.com/index.php?/topic/2930-end-of-my-affair-with-iris-v1-was-sweet-but-time-to-move-on/ Thanks for your insight.
  17. I had a good return experience, but prepared the manager ahead of time, see here: http://forum.livingwithiris.com/index.php?/topic/2930-end-of-my-affair-with-iris-v1-was-sweet-but-time-to-move-on/
  18. Dan, that might be a workable solution, and if I had received your message a bit earlier, may have tried it out... however, as of a couple hours ago, all the Iris V1 gear I have accumulated has been returned to my local Lowes, for a complete refund. I had spoken to one of the local managers a month ago a1nd reviewed the status of Iris V1 and V2 with him, and at that time he indicated that if I could not make V2 work satisfactorily, he would accept the return. The return was easy, with Lowes store personnel very cooperative. I had a great experience with V1, most everything worked, and what did not, was returned (swapped out) and the swapped out material worked. I can not say that for V2. As outlined above, V2 could not make it through my router/modem, regardless of any settings prescribed by Iris Support Level1, Iris support Level2, or Lowes Executive Support. As far as I know, I still have an open incident with Level 2, and Lowes Executive Support. Neither Level2 or the developers, or Lowes Executive support could provide a resolution... Although V1 continued to work fine. Even with the June 30th clock ticking, there just did not seem to be any urgency among those support folks. No one would take ownership and solve the issue. I even suggested that they buy me a cheap router to place behind my router/modem (if it would work) which would ultimately be less expensive for Lowes than buying back all my V1 gear (which they would then have to toss) ... but apparently, no one has the freedom to think out of the box. Corporation too big I guess... and everyone doing just their little job. Anyway, I am now looking for a replacement system. I did keep one of the Lowes cameras and am using it (along with my other cameras) with third party software. Appreciate the suggestions from everyone here on this forum... I will place a copy of this in the general thread.
  19. Otto, thank you for your suggestions. I think the DMZ solution would work if my modem/router allowed more than one device in the DMZ. My DMZ is occupied by my Ooma IP telephony device, and the modem/router only allows one device in the DMZ.
  20. My other thought for a solution is to place a 2nd router with decent configurable firewall behind the router modem, and open the firewall on the router/modem, relying on the firewall of the 2nd router. I do not know which router to purchase for this purpose (I need one with a very configurable firewall), or if this idea would work.
  21. Thanks very much for your input on this. My router/modem will only allow one rule per port... so I have port 443 opened to the internal IP of the V2 hub, but I do not specify the external IP, allowing all iris servers access (and anyone else) to the V2 hub. I am only allowed one DMZ device, which is currently being used by my Ooma IP telephony device... so the DMZ is in use. I have discovered: 1. If i turn off the firewall in the modem/router the V2 hub goes green (unacceptable solution). 2. Open all ports on my modem outgoing also gets a green V2 hub (unacceptable solution). Unfortunately, with this modem/router (an Actiontek PK5000), there is a firewall table, which only allows the ports listed there to be opened. If not listed there, you can open all others outgoing with a check mark. This is Century Links (and before them, Quests) connectivity device. I can port forward any port, but there is only one rule allowed per port. I have port forwarded 80, 8080, 8082, and 443. So far, this is the extent of the suggestions by Iris 2nd level support. I have also opened an issue with Lowes Executive Customer service, they are not technical, but appear to have an interest in successful problem resolution. Again, thanks for your suggestions.
  22. This is now in the hands of level 2 support. So far it has been determined that the router/modem firewall is blocking Iris V2 even with ports 443, 80, and 8080 forwarded. Level 2 is writing (they apparently can not call them) to the developers to find out what other ports need to be forwarded... meantime the attempts at migrating disconnected all my V1 devices and turned the light on the V1 hub red... resetting the V1 hub fixed that.
  23. Thank you for your suggestions. The open ports appear to be inbound as per the Firewall Status table: Port Forwarding (internal ip of V2 hub) Forwarded Inbound TCP Port 443 Port Forwarding (internal ip of V2 hub) Forwarded Inbound TCP Port 80 The firewall does not appear to have any logging accessible to either me or the ISP.
  24. Firewall Issue? My V2 Hub does not see Iris Servers. V1 works Just Fine. Well, Iris V2 strikes again. Just thought I would get a little ahead of the game and get the new hub firmware updated before attempting a migration. Downloaded the V2 app, registered, plugged in the V2 hub, added the batteries... and vola... flashing red and green lights. Support says this means the hub cannot see the Iris servers... Of course, V1 works just fine thru the same modem and firewall. Support says port forward ports 443 and 80. Ok, did that. Same flashing lights. Reset the hub... same. Anyone have any ideas on this? Waiting for 2nd level support to call back... but if this does not work, looks like I have no choice but complete return of the system. Anyone have any ideas re this? DSL service provider is Century Link, modem is a Actiontek PK5000. Any suggestions welcome. Update: Tried this using a cell phone usb tethered to the hub. No router, but same issue, red and green flashing lights. Spoke to Iris "tech support" this evening. Besides opening port 443 they want me to permanently "TURN OFF MY FIREWALL". Hows that for a "security" solution? I could not believe they were suggesting that. Was there a supervisor, or someone else to talk to? No, but your welcome to call back after being on hold for 1/2 hr... and hear the same message again. "Thats what we are telling all V2 users." Anyone with suggestions would be appreciated.
  25. I did turn off the firewall for testing, briefly. Got a green light on the V2 hub. Turn back on, red and green flashing are back. Appears related to the firewall, have ported forwarded port 443 and 80... appears not to be sufficient.