fms72

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  1. This is a cross-post from my post in a poll on the General forum that may be of interest to those considering Hubitat... The shutdown got me off my feet and over to Hubitat and Ring Alarm. I'm using Hubitat as the main hub with a relay triggering a single contact sensor on the Ring Alarm for its professional monitoring service. I've spent a lot more time on the migration than I wanted but everything appears to be running well and I now have the flexibility to implement rules and automations that were never possible with Iris. I have been able to take over every non-V1 device over to Hubitat:: Iris v2 motion sensors Iris v2 contact sensors Iris v2 buttons Iris v2 keypads(+) Schlage lock Utilitech (Iris) sirens Lutron Caseta switches, dimmers, and (Pico) remotes Orbit (Iris) water valve(*) Dome siren(*) Dome water monitor(*) Smartthings presence sensors(*) Qubino relay(*) (+) Works with Hubitat but no longer using. (*) Newly added post-migration. For professional monitoring, I soldered the Qubino dry-contact relay to a single Ring Alarm contact sensor. The Ring Alarm is configured with 0-sec entry and exit delays. Hubitat manages all the entry and exit delays and when it detects a security event, it toggles the relay after the entry delay elapses to trigger the Ring Alarm. I no longer use any of the Iris keypads and now use a Pico remote to arm the alarm and a valid lock code on the Schlage lock to disarm. I also have Alexa TTS integrated into Hubitat so that there are verbal notifications: when the alarm is armed home, armed away, and disarmed; for the entry and exit delays; when the garage door is opening and closed; and when the pool water level is too high (Dome water monitor integrated into the skimmer that triggers the Orbit water valve to discharge water via the cartridge filter). Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with this solution. Hubitat has its quirks and I found the Hub Safety Monitor (HSM) and Motion Lighting components to be poorly thought out. Much of the effort was spent on implementing HSM and Motion Lighting, discovering all the quirks and trying to address or work around them, and finally implementing the functionality I wanted using the Rule Machine (RM) instead. I should also note that a number of key integrations between Hubitat and the Nest Thermostat, Nest Protect, Ring Alarm (to sync armed home, armed away, and disarmed states), Alexa text-to-speech (TTS), and Chamberlain MyQ (garage door opener) are dependent on community-written apps and drivers made available for Hubitat and/or Smartthings.
  2. fms72

    Platform Poll

    The shutdown got me off my feet and over to Hubitat and Ring Alarm. I'm using Hubitat as the main hub with a relay triggering a single contact sensor on the Ring Alarm for its professional monitoring service. I've spent a lot more time on the migration than I wanted but everything appears to be running well and I now have the flexibility to implement rules and automations that were never possible with Iris. I have been able to take over every non-V1 device over to Hubitat:: Iris v2 motion sensors Iris v2 contact sensors Iris v2 buttons Iris v2 keypads(+) Schlage lock Utilitech (Iris) sirens Lutron Caseta switches, dimmers, and (Pico) remotes Orbit (Iris) water valve(*) Dome siren(*) Dome water monitor(*) Smartthings presence sensors(*) Qubino relay(*) (+) Works with Hubitat but no longer using. (*) Newly added post-migration. For professional monitoring, I soldered the Qubino dry-contact relay to a single Ring Alarm contact sensor. The Ring Alarm is configured with 0-sec entry and exit delays. Hubitat manages all the entry and exit delays and when it detects a security event, it toggles the relay after the entry delay elapses. I no longer use any of the Iris keypads and now use a Pico remote to arm the alarm and a valid lock code on the Schlage lock to disarm. I also have Alexa TTS integrated into Hubitat so that there are verbal notifications: when the alarm is armed home, armed away, and disarmed; for the entry and exit delays; when the garage door is opening and closed; and when the pool water level is too high (Dome water monitor integrated into the skimmer that triggers the Orbit water valve to discharge water via the cartridge filter). Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with this solution. Hubitat has its quirks and I found the Hub Safety Monitor (HSM) and Motion Lighting components to be poorly thought out. Much of the effort was spent on implementing HSM and Motion Lighting, discovering all the quirks and trying to address or work around them, and finally implementing what I wanted exactly using the Rule Machine (RM). I should also note that a few key integrations between Hubitat and the Nest Thermostat, Nest Protect, Ring Alarm (to sync armed home, armed away, and disarmed states), Alexa text-to-speech (TTS), and Chamberlain MyQ (garage door opener) are dependent on community-written apps and drivers available for Hubitat or Smartthings.
  3. fms72

    V2 Keypad lights

    Does the blinking amber for system is not ready to arm work for anyone?
  4. This has to be obvious but how the heck do you remove the battery from the smart button? Flipping the gray switch looks like it pops out the tray 1mm but I haven't been able to pry it out.
  5. fms72

    Status LED Behavior on V2 Keypad

    I have an elderly individual in the household who is hard of hearing. The audio signals are too quiet for her so she relies on the LED. Without knowing that there is still an open device, it's too easy to arm again too early and inadvertently force it to bypass the open devices.
  6. fms72

    Login "Remember Me"

    When I've been prompted to login, I kill the app and relaunch. For whatever reason, I've never been prompted for the login after relaunching. This is with iOS.
  7. Is there any way to determine if all devices are closed from the keypad before arming the system? On my two V2 keypads, the status LED always lights up green. If I force the alarm to arm (push twice), the status LED will flash orange once and then start flashing red. The orange flash is not obvious and the system then proceeds to arm with the open devices bypassed. From another thread, it seems that the status LED should flash orange when there are devices that are still open. Any insights on how I can determine the status of the devices before going ahead and arming the system? Thanks, Oliver