Enzo

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Enzo last won the day on April 21 2016

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About Enzo

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  1. Iris App Version 2.6.0

    Terk, I think that is the issue, they have to have protection features built in, and one of those I think is that if the door detects an obstruction two times consecutively it must disable remote operation of the door until the door is closed using the physical button, so they can be sure you are physically present. I don't know if that is a standard they all must adhere to, to get UL certification or something, or just the one I have, but I remember reading something to that effect. So even if the app allowed you to keep trying to send the command I think it would just keep failing because the opener will not accept any commands other than from the control physically wired to it. If that is the case, then it makes sense to disable the button to let me know that it is not going to work because the opener has locked out remote operation.
  2. So is it only your browser that does not show the devices, and they appear fine in the mobile app? If so, I would try flushing your browser cache and reloading the web page (maybe holding the Control key or Shift key while clicking the refresh button), or accessing the web site from a different browser or a different device, to see if the problem is just your browser. What browser are you using?
  3. Sylvania lightify A19 not supported?

    Did you get the new Smart+ versions? I'm not sure if those are supported by Iris. Sylvania recently changed, or started changing, the branding of their "Lightify" bulbs to "Smart+".
  4. oldfredbear, By force removing the device it is removed from your Iris system, but the device probably still thinks it is paired to the system. I don't think there is a way to "reset" these devices, but if you go into the "Devices" list on your Iris app and scroll to the bottom, select "Z-Wave Tools" and then "Remove Z-Wave Devices" you should be able to then press the button on the front of the device and it should remove itself from the network. After that you should be able to pair it again. In general, I always try this if a Z-Wave device will not pair, just to make sure the device does not think it is still on another network (or even thinks it is still on my network, but my hub does not know about the device any longer). Hope that helps.
  5. Iris version 1.16 for Android is in the Play Store

    I think that might be Data Use (i.e. network traffic). My Android tablet lists the "Storage" as 74MB, and "Data Usage" as 20MB (but I rarely use the tablet, usually my phone).
  6. Was the bulb on or off before you turned power off and then back on? In other words, when power came back on did the bulb resume whatever state it was in before power was turned off, or does it always turn on whenever power is turned on. I can actually see cases for wanting both. I know the bulbs themselves always turn on when power is applied, at least those I have do, so in the middle of the night, if we get a power glitch, which we often do, I'd like the system to turn the bulbs back to off when power is restored. But with some lights I used to just toggle the switch to get them to turn on if I did not have my phone handy, because that would reset them. It seems that no longer works because the system is restoring them to what ever state they were previously in now. I guess if I have to choose I prefer how it works now, because I just use Alexa now when I don't have my phone handy, rather than toggle the power switch, and it is nice to not have all the bulbs turn on and stay on any time power is restored after an outage.
  7. GE Outdoor Plug - minimum range on V2

    For what it's worth, I recently removed and then added back a Z-Wave smoke detector, and after pairing it back up with the hub the app prompted me if I wanted to rebuild the Z-Wave network, which I decided to do, and after that my GE Outdoor Switch dropped offline. I had to power-cycle the switch to get it to reconnect. I have not noticed any of my GE in-wall switches going offline however, so maybe it was just a coincidence. It did get very cold recently and perhaps that effected the outdoor switch.
  8. First Alert Zsmoke

    No, they do not interconnect, or at least mine don't. If you have sirens installed those should go off when any of the detectors go off, but one detector will NOT set off the alarm in the other detectors, or at least mine have not.
  9. GE hinge sensor

    I have two of the NYCE hinge sensors, one on the front door, used maybe once a day, and one on a garage entry door, used probably 6 to 8 times a day. I have had no disconnects, and have not had to change the batteries in either device yet. The More > Product information pages in the app say that one was added 222 days ago, and the other 215 days ago. I'd say that is pretty reliable operation. I did have to readjust the set screw on the front door once because when the wind was blowing directly at it, while the screen was on the storm door, that was enough to trigger false opens, so I had to give the set screw another quarter turn. Now I have the front door sensor set such that if the sensor says the door is closed I know I can activate the lock and it will truly lock the door. They were a great deal a week or so ago when Lowe's had them on sale for about $25 (actually I just checked and they are still on sale, or maybe that is just the price now https://www.lowes.com/pd/Nyce-Indoor-Door-and-Window-Sensor-Works-with-Iris/999912577) I have seen the Hinge Pin sensors and they look interesting. I like the pin mount because it is less noticeable than a contact sensor and also our interior doors all have frames that are not flat, so our doors don't work great with contact sensors. I like that the Hinge Pin sensors are reversible and that you can adjust them, but I have never installed one and used it over time. They are Z-Wave Plus certified so they use the new chips and hopefully are more reliable and have better range.
  10. PSA Osram LED lights on sale at 25% off

    I had one set that would flicker on and off because of a loose connection between the controller and the power "brick". You might want to make sure that all those connections are as tight as you can make them. I wonder if the connection might be sporadic after they warm up or something. Good luck with the second set, I hope it works better for you. One of my sets is WEMO compatible and one is not, and both work with my Iris system once I got all the connections good and tight. Unfortunately I don't remember which was the one I had issues with originally. I also have been using them inside, so they have not been exposed to very big temperature fluctuations, but I have been contemplating getting a few more sets for outside. I'll be interested to hear how they work out for you.
  11. Alexa won't recognize OSRAM bulbs.

    I had something similar happen and I had to go in the Alexa app and remove Iris from Alexa, then add it back again and that seemed to clear everything up and the new lights were found.
  12. I think I saw somewhere once that some versions of these outlets support a "protection" mode, where 3 rapid pushes of the button on the device can be used to "disable/enable" the operation of the device, so that a single button press locally does not control it, but that might not be true. You might try pushing the button 3 times quickly to see if that resets it and it can then be paired. Otherwise, the only thing I can think of would be that some devices require a minimum wattage draw in order for them to operate an depending on what you have plugged in they may not work. For example, I had one switch that would work if I plugged in an incandescent 40W or higher bulb, but would not work when I plugged in an LED bulb that only drew about 5W. Usually those devices do not have a Neutral wire however, so that does not seem like it would be the case here. Does the LED on the outlet work (on when outlet is off, off when outlet is on)? If not, perhaps the Load and Line wires are reversed, which I have heard will prevent the device from working, but again, it sounds like it works physically, just not over Z-Wave. If the LED does work, another possible solution I have heard is to press the button several times while pairing to make sure the device is sending out messages to the hub. You might have to do that first while using the Z-Wave removal tool, to get a "beep" while removing it before it can be added. Good Luck.
  13. Water heater

    Maybe set up a rule so that if your kids take too long of a shower you can turn off the hot water heater?
  14. Thanks for the tip! Good to know that if an app uses iCloud to store data you need to clear that in addition to removing the app before reinstalling to get a fresh start. I don't know if the Iris app does that, but I have had apps where removing them and reinstalling still seemed to keep the cached data, and this was probably the issue.
  15. Device Hops?

    Oh, my bad, I thought sptrr99 meant use a Contact sensor instead of a Motion sensor. If he can do that, then he might be able to use the Z-Wave contact sensors, which the GE Outdoor plug should repeat. If he meant to use the Contact sensor as a repeater for the Motion sensor, sparc is correct and that will NOT work because the Contact sensor is battery powered and will NOT act as a repeater.