sparc

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Everything posted by sparc

  1. If anyone is interested I have a bunch of mostly 1st Gen Iris hardware available. Many motion sensors but a list of other stuff I won't bother to list. If you're looking for something list it here and I'll get back to you. I hung on to this stuff for a while because I thought I might go over to Arcus or some other system that was compatible with these devices. Since I can't get them to work with SmartThings without creating a bunch of custom device drivers I have decided to sell them. Thanks.
  2. SOLD ! It''s all gone. Sold it at a Hamfest this weekend. 2 Iris 1st gen hubs 1 Vera Hub 2 Iris cameras (1 indoor and 1 outdoor) 14 1G Motion sensors 6 1G door switches 1 1g Repeater All for $30 Good riddance. Tired of looking at the junk.
  3. Well, maybe there is hope yet, just found this. https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-enhanced-zigbee-keypad-device-handler-centralite-uei-iris-xfinity-scout/124776 Spoke too soon. Looks like this will only work with the v2 and later keypads.
  4. I like the v1 over the later versions. Too bad they are useless to me now.
  5. I have three v1 keypads looking for work. 🙂
  6. sparc

    How useful is a Ring Doorbell only?

    I just setup a Ring doorbell with the inside chime. I had been using a SmartThings SmartButton and the Aerotec doorbell but the Ring is better in a couple ways. First it has a built in camera which I dodn't have with the Iris button I was using as a doorbell or with the ST SmartButton. I have cameras that cover the entrance from two directions whose fields of view overlap so you can't approach either camera from any direction without being seen by the other but I have no audio setup with those particular cameras and if you're standing facing the door then your face can not be seen or recorded. The Ring Doorbell solves that problem for us. I have no power available there so having the battery option is a plus. The audio quality is very good I think for what it is and the wife is happy with it and that's the most important thing. She is often somewhere in the house away from the door and the Aerotec doorbell volume even on it's highest setting was not enough to be heard in the back of the house. The Ring indoor chime is very loud and solves that problem plus she has the app on her phone so she can receive alerts on the phone and use the camera and mic to talk to whoever is at the door. It works well with Alexa too. I can use my Fire TV stick remote and say "Alexa, display back door" and the Ring camera video and audio is piped right on the TV full screen. If I'm viewing from an Alexa device like the Echo Show, then I have two-way audio. Thanks to the two security system cameras and their IR lights, the RIng camera has a view at night that looks like daytime. It has it's own IR LEDs but the additional IR lighting floods the area sho there are no shadows. The only negative to a Ring doorbel that I can see is if it was your only camera watching the porch nad it is mounted in the traditional location next to the door and about 48 inches up is you can't see the area at the bottom of the doorway. So a package placed there is out of view. It's not possible to approach it without being detected, but you can't see it. This image is of poor quality because it is a snapshot taken with my phone camera off the display of my Echo Spot. In reality it is very clear.
  7. sparc

    Z-wave Locks

    "These Schlage locks are pretty old, it's probably time to start swapping them out." Funny, if they were the old 'dumb' locks they would last forever just about, but now that they are 21st century tech they are cr@p in only a couple years. Makes me wonder if we are really moving forward or just found a way to empty our wallets faster thanks to engineered-in obsolesce .
  8. sparc

    Bringing back IRIS by Lowe's

    I would like to be able to put my four V1 keypads to use.
  9. I have two of these. I'm sure it's been discussed here some time in the past but after 15 minutes of searching the forum and the web I can not find anything about them other than the little bit of info on t Lowes support site. https://www.irisbylowes.com/support/?stStep=004;D;f:011,e41974fd-46a3-4ecb-98ed-a43a82a60a35;f:012,acf39f86-c2b5-4a46-a97b-495e5191e57e;g:027 I've tried to pair them with Alexa directly since they are Wi-Fi and shouldn't need a hub. Am I wrong? I think I tried these before and the answer was they are not compatible with any system. But I'd just like to verify that before I trash them. If I could get them to work with Alexa or SmartThings that would be nice.
  10. So what have you put AI to work doing for you with the lockdown and COVID19. Found any uses for your devices that might save you and everyone in the house from touch contamination or some other use that make you safer? Or what applications have you seen being put in place now or envision for AI in the future.
  11. sparc

    Lowe's gift cards expiring

    Yours may still be good, depends on when you received them. There is a number you can call to hear the remaining balance. If zero and you haven't used them call and see what you can do. But maybe before doing that give them a try on Amazon to see if you can use them to buy a gift card like scunny suggested. Then you can use them anytime to make an Amazon purchase.
  12. sparc

    Iris GL08_2 Wi-Fi Smart Outdoor Plugs

    Thanks Otto, no reset for the outdoor plugs huh. Any idea who makes them? I could not find them under any other brand name. It does says Intertek on the back and there is a number, but I tried searching on that and came up empty. Where is our resident hacker John (gillian) when you need him? 🙂
  13. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    SmartThings and my Sense energy monitor saved my basement the other day. I was awoken by the alarm sounding off at 3:00 AM. When that happens a recorded message plays through the Aerotec doorbell, all the lights in the house come on, and if it's a security alert then the siren will sound. In this case it wasn't an intruder alert or perimeter security breach. It was a leak in my water system. A PVC fitting (check valve) broke (split at the threaded connection) and was gushing water at 60 PSI and about 3 GPM. I have three of the IRIS 2G leak detectors spread around the basement at potential problem areas. The mechanical room where the water heater and boiler are, over by the water treatment system where the line from our well enters the house, and by the air handler and AC coil where there is a condensate reservoir and pump which collects water from condensation on the AC coil or from the dehumidifier in the Summer. All three of these are set to send an alarm to my phone and to sound a local alarm in the house and turn on the lights. By the time I got downstairs in the basement I had about 50 gallons of water on the floor [that's based on how much water we hauled out during cleanup]. When I went back through the notification list in the ST App I saw that the first leak detection was at 2:55AM at the well pump. The second leak detector by the air handler tripped a couple minutes later. There is a sump in the floor next to the well tank and water treatment system, but we don't have a sump pump in it and have never needed it in 22 years and the previous owners didn't have one either. It's not really big enough to do much, it's just a piece of 12 inch square clay flue lining set in the concrete and filled with stone. I don't know how deep it goes as I've never dug out the stone, no reason to. But apparently the leak started minutes earlier because the Sense energy monitor sent an alert at 3:05 that the well pump had been running for over 15 minutes continuously. I set that up to let me know either A - the sprinkler system was running or B - there was a failure in the domestic water system, either of which are the only two scenarios I could think of where the pump would run more than 15 minutes. So 15 minutes after the pump came on I got the alert from the Sense app on the phone, and it came within a minute of the SmartThings app alerting me of the leak detector trips. I believe the delay in the ST leak detection was due to the water initially running down into the sump so it didn't set off the leak detector when the leak first occurred. I guess once the sump became saturated with water and it started backing up is when the flooding of the floor began. Ironically if IRIS were still up and running I would have found out much sooner as I had a different leak detector, the Utilitech which has a remote sensor, installed with the sensor down in the sump. But that sensor does not work under SmartThings so I had substitute one of the IRIS 2G Leak detectors. Came down in the basement and saw what the situation was. Luckily the split was on the side facing the wall and all the water was spraying into the corner and not across the room so no water damage to anything up high just some stuff that was on the floor in the area near the pump. I couldn't shut off the pump at the disconnect switch because the area had standing water on the floor. So had to go to the breaker panel on the other side of the house and open the breaker before it was safe to enter the area. I shut off a 1-1/4 valve that isolates the house and the well tank from the well so I was able to hold back all that water from draining into the basement. That meant I only had a small volume of water in a few feet of pipe from the valve to where the line comes in the house and there is a check valve. It was that check valve which split and was the cause of the leak. The valve was as old as the house as far as I know. We've been here 22 years and I have not replaced it. Was part of the original plumbing as far as I know. Anyway it is PVC and has a FM threaded connection at each end. PVC FM threaded fittings are something to be avoided in my book. You can never get them tight because the PVC stretches so easily and you end up overtightening them. Spent the next 4 hours sucking up water and hauling damaged stuff outside to take to the dump. Mostly junk we didn't need anyway and some area rugs on the concrete floor so no real loss in dollars. If I hadn't had all 'that stupid electronics stuff' deployed as SHMBO was fond of telling me we most likely would have had much greater damage. The pump would not have stopped until the flooding reached the disconnect switch or the breaker panel and shorted them out. I don't see what else would have stopped it from running for hours had I not been home. If it had happened during the day and we were both at work or away who knows how long or how many thousands of gallons of water would have filled the basement. Basement is roughly same footprint as the house so about 2100 SF. That's a lot of water before you reach the breaker panel and start tripping breakers. I think I may add a NC float switch in line with the pressure switch so that as long as the float switch is not tripped by high water the pump will run. But should this happen again the float in the sump would interrupt the power to the pump and stop the worst of the flooding.
  14. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    I bought 5 of the Samsung sensors, wish I had got double that. I deployed the 5 I had in addition to the 4 I already have in the system. They are much nicer than the Centralite which Lowes rebranded and sold under the Iris name. The contacts on the top and perfect for soldering leads to and adapting them to serve some other purpose. The price is right at ~$18. I will get some more. I can see using one to connect to a glass breakage detector from my old hard-wired alarm system on the slider and a couple other applications.
  15. sparc

    Careful with old Iris Cameras

    Is your question directed at me? If so the alerts I am seeing are not from Xfinity, I don't use any Xfinity supplied hardware. The firewall in my router catches them and emails me a report every day with the IP number of the attacker, the date/time, and type of attack (DoS, Port Scan, etc).
  16. sparc

    Careful with old Iris Cameras

    I see DoS and port scan attempts just about every day too. Not that many only one or two a day but they are there.
  17. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Technical details: power: 1 x CR2 battery Even better deal now that I know they use the same battery.
  18. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    good. I'll research that.
  19. sparc

    Lowe's gift cards expiring

    I rolled mine into a couple Festool tools last Fall. Didn't take long to use them up at Woodcraft, no leftovers here. 🙂
  20. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Thanks to you both. I was looking at the Centralite because they used the CR2 batteries and I have a bunch of those with lots of life left in them. But I want 5 more water sensors and the savings of $17 each for the Samsung sensor over the Centralite is too big to ignore. Looks like I'm going with the Samsung sensors. I'll have to buy something else that uses CR2 batteries so the 50 I have don't go to waste. 🙂
  21. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    " I have 17 leak sensors in the house" Otto what leak detectors are you using. The v2 model is the one that was rebranded and sold by Iris. I'm looking at getting some of these, they're ~$35 each and use the CR2 batteries which I have a ton of after taking all my iris gear that wouldn't run with ST offline. This is version 3. I have the the version 2 now and they have worked well and batteries last a long time. https://centralite.com/products/water-sensor
  22. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Thanks Otto. OK on the sprinkler setup. But for me my sprinkler system is blown out every Fall and not needed back in service until the end of May. So if I use an active zone I'm sending water into a potentially empty line which then I would have to worry about freezing if it was winter time. I was thinking of using a new zone so I can set everything up inside the basement and pitch the pipe to the outside so there will never be standing water in the line outside where it could freeze. Have to buy another zone valve but that's not a big deal. But I think it would be better to use a control valve that's designed for domestic water use and not a sprinkler system. I don't think sprinkler piping and components have to meet NSF-61 and UPC codes like pipe and fittings used on potable water do. And that would mean a fail on a home inspection for a sale which will happen in the next few years. Or take it out before the home inspection is another option. Do the LeakSmart Valves work with SmartThings? I see Lowes still has a few of those available.
  23. sparc

    Careful with old Iris Cameras

    Thanks for the heads up. You saw this in the security log of your router I guess.
  24. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Thanks Otto, I'm well aware of the issue isolating the pressure switch from the pump would create. But good it's in this thread now for anyone else coming along later and reading this. My thoughts on the valve were to be able to prevent the 60 gallon tank from draining out on the floor and also to be able to hold back the water in the lines throughout the house. I ordered the GE switch Tuesday afternoon and had it yesterday, so not looking at other brands. But I did not find the GE 240V switch listed in ST as a recognized device so I am wondering if you had any problems connecting it to the ST hub. I going to look into adding a zone to my Orbit sprinkler controller to add an emergency drain as you did Otto. I like that idea. My lawn only uses 6 of the 12 zones on the controller so no problem adding it in.
  25. sparc

    ST and Sense Saved My Butt

    Oh, I like the drain idea. I wonder if the GE 240 volt switches are still available. I would like to be able to interrupt the power to the pump. And your tank drain idea is good too. I was thinking of something independent of ST or any HA system, something more foolproof that will always work no matter what. A self-contained float switch seems like it would accomplish that. But I am still open to adding the GE 240V switch. I toyed with getting on a couple years ago just to have it and now I wish I did. Did a quick search and they are still out there. I may get one even if I do go with the float switch. I looked in the ST app but didn't see this particular switch from GE (or JASCO who actually makes the switch) listed. SO not sure it is compatible. How did you get it to work with ST Otto? Thanks for the ideas Otto. Stay dry. 🙂 On order, should be here tomorrow. 🙂 Amazon had the best price + free shipping. I wouldn't mind having one of those 40A 240V switches for my shop. I could put it in line with the sub-panel and be able to shut down all the power to tools when not in the shop.