Answers To Your GE Wall Switch plus 3 and 4 Way Switch Circuit Installation Questions
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There have been numerous questions about GE switch, dimmer and auxiliary switch installation for 2, 3 and 4 way circuits.  While doing some research on the new GE Zigbee switches that are now compatible with Iris V2, I stumbled across two excellent videos that will walk you through installation of GE switches for all 2, 3 and 4 way circuits.  The wiring and installation of the Z Wave and the newer Zigbee switches are identical.  The only difference in the two is the pairing procedure.  These videos will eliminate any confusion that you may have about installing these switches and make the job easier than you may think.  Enjoy and be sure that you have turned the power off at the breaker box before you begin.

 

Video instructions for Z Wave and Zigbee primary switch installation:

 

 

Video instructions for auxiliary switch installation for 3 and 4 way circuits:

 

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Can also confirm 5-way switch installations function properly as well even though not explicitly stated by GE/Jasco in most documentation or on the boxes/packaging.  I apologize if this was made known somewhere else.

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Do you know if there is more than one model of auxiliary switch for the GE Z-wave stuff?
I have a ZW4001 that doesn't seem to work with a brand new GE auxiliary switch. I'm not sure if I have a bad master switch or just the wrong aux switch.
I've verified the aux switch is functional on another 3 way circuit. Is there a different aux switch for the older ZW4001?

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Do you know if there is more than one model of auxiliary switch for the GE Z-wave stuff?

I have a ZW4001 that doesn't seem to work with a brand new GE auxiliary switch. I'm not sure if I have a bad master switch or just the wrong aux switch.

I've verified the aux switch is functional on another 3 way circuit. Is there a different aux switch for the older ZW4001?

 

Is there any chance that 120 volts has ever been introduced to the traveler connection of the ZW4001?  If so the switch is hosed and will not work in a three way circuit. 

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The ZW4001 was purchased on ebay, advertised as new, but the packaging was opened, so it is possible that someone miswired it.
scunnyngham, I believe that is the exact auxiliary switch I have. It is the newest GE Z-wave add-on switch Lowe's sells. I knew you couldn't use a regular 3w switch.

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I wired up a bunch of z-wave switches and dimmers over the last week or so.
I remember pulling the sticker off of some of them that were 3 way configurations before wiring them up, but I can't remember if that one already had the sticker on it or not.

I didn't even try the 3 way circuits myself because I have a strange wiring variation (power comes in at the fixture and then wires go out to the switch boxes, and didn't have neutrals in the right boxes).
I have a friend who is a very skilled licensed electrician who does a lot of home automation, audio/video, etc... who came over and helped me with my 3 way circuits.
We had to get creative with my wiring, but he got it all working. I can confirm that we never put juice to that terminal (we double checked it with a meter before hooking it up), He said he suspected it might send some sort of low voltage signal to the aux switch, however I don't know if he ripped the sticker off before he put it in, or if it was already gone.
I had two circuits wired identicaly. After he worked his magic, one circuit worked and the other didn't (add-on switch ZW2004 wouldn't work). We swapped add on switches thinking we had a bad add-on switch, but same circuit had the problem. After double checking the wiring configuration, we swapped the main switch and found that the problem followed that switch. Only difference was the switch that didn't work with the add-on switch was a ZW4001 (purchase from ebay), the one that would work with the add-on switch was a ZW4005 purchase directly from lowes (going off of memory with the item numbers). 
Overall, I was just curious if the ZW4001 required a different add-on switch than the ZW4005 (ZW2002 maybe?) Sounds like the answer is no. I guess the traveler terminal on my main switch is dead? (either defective or burned out by the previous owner)

Strangely enough, we measured the voltage coming from the traveler terminal on both completed z-wave setups. Both measured 112V coming FROM the traveler terminal on the main switch... (of course one worked and one didn't).

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I have a GE dimmer model ZW3003 that I can not sonnect.  How do you totally reset this guy so I can start over?  I air gapped it a few times - but it is not pairing.

 

Use the z wave removal tool on your hub.  Put it in un-pairing mode with the tool and tap the on button on the switch and wait for hub conformation that the device has been reset.

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Not getting Any response from the hub when I use the z wave tool. Do I need to move the hub closer?

 

The z wave removal tool works very well.  How far away is the hub?  Toggle the switch a couple of times while the hub is in removal mode. 

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I have tried with the iPhone app and also the android emulator. When I use the iPhone app the rotating symbol on top above the word searching (see the pic) freezes and does not rotate when looking for a zwave device. I hit the switch on off a few times but nothing.

post-1436-0-06041300-1472641222_thumb.png

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I've never had a problem with the Z-Wave removal tool in iOS. It always finds and removes devices almost immediately... much faster than the process for pairing.
If I ever purchase a used z-wave device, I always do this before pairing... worked without issue every time.

What I HAVE had problems with on iOS is removing missing devices that DO show up in my app, or devices which fail to pair and show as "unknown device". If I try to remove a device via the "remove device" button in the app, I get a message that says "oops, something went wrong", but it removes just fine in android.

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Huge exasperated sigh as Iris pilfers more of my un-ubiquitous time...

History:

GE 12724 initially paired and functioned, but dusk to dawn operation/rule would not. While on the phone with Iris for another issue (lost both of my indoor cameras and they wouldn't re-pair), the "tech" removed the switch. After resolving the camera issue the "tech", walked me through several hoops to no avail (2hours gone)...I gave up and said thanks for getting my cameras working again.

Since then, I have spent time searching forums...some suggestions included those not offered through "tech". All of which I have tried...air gap, hub distance, resets, Zwave removal tool...multiple times...The only thing I haven't tried is to "repair the network". This seems excessive as the switch was installed and paired perfectly when first purchased.

I have an intermediate to advanced level of understanding as it applies to electronics/electricity, and my first question was; is the switch even transmitting a signal? My searches have not yielded any satisfactory answers.

The current investment involved to troubleshoot a device that turns my outside lights ON and OFF is no where near its purported "convenience".

Any suggested alternatives beyond those currently available in this forum will be greatly appreciated - thank you.

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