My .02 Cents. V02 - Bad Idea.
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31 posts in this topic

 

These were Duracells, that were sitting at 3.01-3.02v. Are the Minamoto the white generic ones?  I think I have a few devices that have those. I order Energizers as replacements. 

 

What kind of life are you getting out of rechargeables?

 

I had assumed 3 volts flat was dead for the CR2, I couldnt find anything specfic though

 

Yep - the white generic batteries.  My rechargeables are cheap ebay batteries but they last about 4-5 months for my V1 motion detectors.

 

Open circuit, I'd assume anything below 2.6V-2.5V is pretty much dead.  There's still some life left in 3.0V.

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Yep - the white generic batteries.  My rechargeables are cheap ebay batteries but they last about 4-5 months for my V1 motion detectors.

 

Open circuit, I'd assume anything below 2.6V-2.5V is pretty much dead.  There's still some life left in 3.0V.

 

Hmm,  two door/window sensors and one motion sensor thay went offline at the same time, no response from them (lights). Once I replaced the batteries they worked as normal.

 

The rest of my devices should be due before long, I'll be interested to see what they measure 

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Yep - the white generic batteries.  My rechargeables are cheap ebay batteries but they last about 4-5 months for my V1 motion detectors.

 

Open circuit, I'd assume anything below 2.6V-2.5V is pretty much dead.  There's still some life left in 3.0V.

 

Well three more sensors died today, all are going offline without warning, and no longer function at 3.0 volts. Both multi-meters I have here, are are reading the same across the Duracell and Minamoto, 3.02 - 3.04. They must fall flat when you place any sort of load on them or something is all I can figure. But they also measure that same voltage in the sensor as well.

 

The brand new Energizers read 3.22 - 3.26 volts.

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<...> They must fall flat when you place any sort of load on them or something is all I can figure. But they also measure that same voltage in the sensor as well.

 

 

This is usually the case.  If you can stick the DMM on the battery while in the sensor (like a contact sensor), see what the voltage drop is when the sensor actually pulls from the battery.  I bet it falls way below 3V.

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This is usually the case.  If you can stick the DMM on the battery while in the sensor (like a contact sensor), see what the voltage drop is when the sensor actually pulls from the battery.  I bet it falls way below 3V.

 

They measure that in the sensor too. 

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"... The V2 hub didn't even have mounting holes that matched the V1?"

Funny, that's my biggest out of box complaint. I don't want to climb up and re-mount the damned thing. :)

 

Please post a summary of your experience with Vera Plus once you get it setup.

Many of us are keeping a close eye on SmartThings and Vera, since Lowes has pigeon-holed us, making platform migration our only TRUE backout strategy thus far. 

 

I can't comment on Vera but I've switched two Iris systems over to SmartThings and have been pretty happy for a couple of months now. I was able to get parity functionality with V1. Due to the generous return policy on the Iris gear that Scunnyngham pointed out I was able to return my $300ish in V1 sensors and purchase V2 sensors that are compatible with ST. 

 

I've said it in other posts but the Iris V2 sensors seem to be best in breed for price/functionality as far as basic contact/motion/keypad/leak detection goes. Paired with a good application ecosystem like SmartThings and it's a pretty solid system. 

 

ETA: I think some of the bad reviews on the V2 keypad and V2 sensors are due to hub/system issues not the actual sensors. My V2 sensors have been working pretty much flawless since switching hubs, enough so that I've bought a bunch more. 

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